Friday, January 15, 2010


Alright, so I know we're already over 1/24th of the way through the new year, but I've been waiting for something worthwhile to post about.
As an obsessive goal and list maker (not necessarily goal or list finisher), the new year always provides plenty of opportunity for entertainment. As a climber, these goals are often routes, usually harder than I can realistically climb at the moment, but that doesn't matter. Everything is possible with a blank slate. So, in the spirit of the year, Ten climbs for TwentyTen:

In Colorado:
Scary Canary, 5.12 R, Eldo Canyon
Oddly enough the only climb on the list from my home crag. I think I was inclined to pick a lot of "destination" climbs to motivate me to travel a bit and check out new places.

The Avenger, 5.13a, Independence Pass
I've never checked out Indy Pass, but it's up in the mountains and might make a good warm weather destination. Hopefully I can hang out there long enough to send this burly looking route.

The Wasp, 5.13a, Rocky Mountain National Park
Another very difficult single pitch route, one the coolest looking hard trad leads in the state. I'd be very psyched to check this line out.

Ariana, 5.12a, the Diamond of Long's Peak
This one will be a test of fitness at altitude (it starts over 13,000'). Hopefully it'll go well, and I can set my sights on some harder Diamond routes

The Free Nose, 5.12, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
A huge and committing hard free climb in on the coolest (and scariest) looking climbing venues in the lower 48.

Tague Yer Time, 5.12, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Another long and difficult route, this one's in the shade. I've heard very good things about this new-ish route.

Moonlight Buttress, 5.12d, Zion National Park
Splitter sandstone big-wall, enough said.

Freerider, 5.12d, Yosemite
Maybe the ultimate goal for me; free climbing El Capitan would certainly be a lifetime highlight.

A more aid intensive El Cap route
Less specific, but I'll leave my options open. Basically I'd like to do a "real" El Cap route besides the Nose and the Salathe, which I've climbed multiple times each. I'm not sure I'll be into "hard" aid climbing, which to me just sounds scary. But perhaps the North America wall, Tangerine Trip, Melcalito, Pacific Ocean wall, the Sheild, or Zodiac would provide some entertainment. Ideally I'd do a few, and if I get the hang of fast aid climbing, do one in a day.

A BIG link-up: Reg NW Face of Half Dome + The Nose + another big climb (maybe South Face of Column?)
Hey, it's a dream list...

One more goal: climb 200+ days outside this year. Hmmm, this might be hard, but today was day 8...