tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-78669911362975757962024-03-14T02:52:14.258-07:00THE BIG WIDE WESTScott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.comBlogger90125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-60982129849861080232011-12-26T19:11:00.000-08:002011-12-26T19:13:35.759-08:00Rope and SummitHello Friends<div><br /></div><div>I've moved and renamed my blog:</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="www.ropeandsummit.wordpress.com">www.RopeandSummit.wordpress.com</a></div><div><br /></div><div>Check it out!</div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com17tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-39476637503238975422011-12-05T11:20:00.000-08:002011-12-05T16:40:12.314-08:00Lessons from a lazy, but hungry, climber<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vG2B4YYOO2g/Tt1GxGFGT4I/AAAAAAAAC8w/wDOjTE5M1cU/s1600/sammy.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vG2B4YYOO2g/Tt1GxGFGT4I/AAAAAAAAC8w/wDOjTE5M1cU/s400/sammy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682776114070966146" /></a>THE GLORIOUS SEND-WICH!<div><br /></div><div>Readers of this blog will surely be familiar with the "Send-wich". Pack as much meat, cheese, mayo, mustard, onion, etc between two bread-ish platforms as possible. Sometimes the delicious filling bursts the bread-y bounds and you just carry it around in a feed-bag. Either way, it's a powerful way to fuel any sort of adventure.</div><div><br /></div><div>This post is not, though, about the Sendwich. Though it is certainly about SENDING!</div><div><br /></div><div>In my continuing series of muddled and useless fast-and-light climbing advice posts, this post will discuss the ideal food strategies for long alpine climbs (2+ days). While a monstrous sammich is more than sufficient for one-day clambering trips, when you're gonna be out for a while, eating a sufficient and varied diet while climbing is essential to success. And, as with everything else I talk about, it needs to be as light as possible for this weak climber to have any chance of getting up anything!</div><div><div><div><br /></div><div>--------------------------</div><div><br /></div><div>Last February, my friend Blake and I were at Piedras Negras base camp, just north of the Fitzroy Massif. We had just returned from a 24hr push, establishing a new route on the West face of Aguja Guillamet. We'd consumed most of our food supplies, and had planned on returning to town, about 20 miles distant.</div><div><br /></div><div>So imagine our excitement, and subsequent frustration, when a few of our friends showed up at camp with reports of more good weather! Weather windows are rare and highly prized in Patagonia, and here we were caught flat-footed in the middle of an enormous, wall-to-wall picture window, without sufficient food to pull off another climb without returning first to town.</div><div><br /></div><div>Our friend Hayden, always the optimist, counseled us to "go for it!" and push the North Pillar of Fitz "Slovenian style" with our three bars and single tea bag for nourishment. </div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div>This advice we ignored, and opted instead on a lightning run/hitch-hike back to town to re-supply. We returned the next day, and still managed another solid day of climbing, making the FFA of a route on the west face of Aguja Mermoz.</div><div><br /></div><div>I know that, whatever might work for Slovenes or Poles or Honeybadgers or other manifest badasses, I need sufficient food to have success on a climb. For long periods of sustained activity, like say, thru-hiking the PCT, a young man of 150-180lbs might need upwards of 4000cal/day in order to maintain his weight. In this post, I'm focusing on alpine climbs from 2-7 days, so it might not be necessary to replace all of the calories you're burning, since you can roll back into town/basecamp a few pounds lighter. But if you're consistently and severely shorting yourself everyday, you will not be able to function at peak performance. So, I'll assume that I need to average 3000-4000 calories/day. What is the best, and lightest-weight, way to achieve this goal?</div><div><br /></div><div><b>-Energy Density-</b></div><div><br /></div><div>Pay attention to the energy (caloric) density of the foods you take into the mountains. It should be easy to achieve a balanced and nutritious diet while maintaining an average ratio of at least</div><div><b>100 calories per ounce.</b></div><div><b><br /></b></div><div>We get calories from Fats, Carbohydrates, and Protein. Of these, Fats are the most energy dense. Oils have the best ration of any food I know of, with Olive Oil providing 250cal/oz. Carbs, whether from sugars or starches, often provide 100cal/oz. Proteins are less calorie dense, with Beef jerky providing 70cal/oz.</div><div><br /></div><div>For a balanced diet, we need all types of energy, but obviously we're going to focus on fats.</div><div><br /></div><div><b>-Meal Ideas-</b></div><div>BREAKFAST: a hot breakfast is a welcome luxury after a cold bivy, and helps to get the day started right. I like instant oatmeal, since it's fast and easy. But don't just buy the packets and call it good; load it up!</div><div><br /></div><div>Fully Loaded Oatmeal:</div><div>Instant oats</div><div>powdered milk</div><div>dried fruit</div><div>protein powder (vanilla)</div><div>sugar, cinnamon, etc</div><div><br /></div><div>Pack it all up in one big ziplock bag, and ration it out every morning for a powerful kickstart to the day.</div><div><br /></div><div>LUNCH/SNACKS: Rarely on a big climb do we have the time to stop and lay down a picnic lunch. So here, aim for convenient foods that are easy and tasty to chow:</div><div><br /></div><div>Nuts (Cashews, Peanuts, Almonds, etc) Fatty, salty, protein packed, there's nothing better. Cashews offer 160cal/oz.</div><div><br /></div><div>Bars are certainly easy to eat, and are often very dense with energy. Larabars are mostly made of dates, nuts, and creative flavorings. Formed into delicious little rectangles, these bars don't melt or freeze easily, so pack a ton! Up to 135 cal/oz.</div><div><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-79IyQLAfdlo/Tt1iOgm7dBI/AAAAAAAAC9g/49MJFZnSZtg/s1600/For%2BLarabar.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-79IyQLAfdlo/Tt1iOgm7dBI/AAAAAAAAC9g/49MJFZnSZtg/s400/For%2BLarabar.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682806306222339090" /></a>A clutch of Larabars at a bivy site<br /><br /></div><div>Gels, like Clifbar's Clif Shot, offer a different mix of calories, focusing more on ready-to-use sugars. They often include heaps of caffeine too, so use these when you need a quick power boost. Because they don't include many fats, they're a bit less dense, often just below 100cal/oz, but they're still essential to avoid the bonk.</div><div><br /></div><div>Chocolate, need I say more?</div><div><br /></div><div>Energy Cookies: if you're into baking, make yourself some super-powered cookies, using your favorite recipe. Make sure to load it up with nuts, chocolate, butter, dried fruit, and maybe some quinoa. Making them fairly dense and more brownie-shaped will help them not to crumble.</div><div><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tzI0gK9-dEU/Tt1haJKDckI/AAAAAAAAC88/8vsw0QSQ_zk/s1600/cookies.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tzI0gK9-dEU/Tt1haJKDckI/AAAAAAAAC88/8vsw0QSQ_zk/s400/cookies.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682805406574015042" /></a>Blake prepares some power-packed energy cookies in Chalten, Argentina<br /><br /></div><div>DINNER: The biggest meal of the day, this is where you'll need to refuel to prepare for the next day. Protein will help with recovery, so it's worth including despite is relative energy paucity. Freeze dried meals are my staple for dinner, since they're easy to make and delicious. Backpackers Pantry makes some tasty dinners, but make sure to pay attention to the actual energy content. Many supposed "two-man" dinners contain only 400 cal TOTAL! Since we're aiming for 1000+ calories (per person) for dinner, you'll need to supplement a hearty freeze dried dinner with other foods.</div><div><br /></div><div>Backpacker's Pantry: </div><div><div>Santa Fe Chicken 7.5oz, 800cal</div><div>Pad Thai 8oz, 920cal</div></div><div><br /></div><div>Add other instant foods, like soup mix, sausage, olive oil, couscous, potato flakes, milk powder parmesan cheese, in order to round out a good meal.</div><div><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GXauB_dyHFA/Tt1hsK9IAhI/AAAAAAAAC9I/HR4BARW4FYU/s1600/oil.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 301px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GXauB_dyHFA/Tt1hsK9IAhI/AAAAAAAAC9I/HR4BARW4FYU/s400/oil.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682805716294304274" /></a></div><div>I like to carry a small plastic bottle of olive oil and add it to just about all meals. At 250cal/oz, it will enhance the power and flavor of everything it touches!</div><div><br /></div><div>HOT DRINKS</div><div>Hot beverages are always in style, so brew some up whenever you have the stove out. I like the Via instant coffee packets, hot cocoa (add to the coffee!), or tea bags. Also, Emergen-C, that vitamin packed fizzy drink mix, it excellent as a hot drink. </div><div>Add milk powder and sugar to tea, etc for extra energy.</div></div><div><br /></div><div>TASTE!</div><div>While they may not add a ton of calories, there are many light-weight ways to add flavor to otherwise bland meals:</div><div>Bring a few cloves of fresh garlic, plus a jalapeno or other peppers to chop into a meal.</div><div>Many instant meals are already well-salted, but you will crave a lot of salt if you're sweating all day. Grab some little salt and pepper packets from a gas station or fast-food joint to add.</div></div><div><br /></div>SUMMIT TREAT:<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nyBM2YRaOZA/Tt1h83WST8I/AAAAAAAAC9U/8siVmTucKwA/s1600/alfahore.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nyBM2YRaOZA/Tt1h83WST8I/AAAAAAAAC9U/8siVmTucKwA/s400/alfahore.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5682806003088904130" /></a><div>Very Important.</div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-49746643954229105542011-11-13T15:32:00.000-08:002011-11-13T14:50:22.895-08:00Carry Less, Climb More<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">LESSONS FROM A LAZY CLIMBER<br /><br />This post is something new for this page, but far from original in the world of climber internet spray- logs. This is an advice post. In the next few posts, I'm going to share some lessons and tricks that I've learned in the pursuit of fast and light rock climbing.<br /><br />Before getting into it, I'd like to briefly mention that this advice is for experienced climbers looking for new ways to go light. This is not intended for folks just getting into the sport, and many of the techniques inevitably will reduce your margins of safety, and therefore require good "mountain sense".</span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span></span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">But now, the first lesson:<br />Since climbing is a team sport, let your partner do the work. It is often easy to coordinate with your partner to eliminate redundancy, while still bringing exactly what the team will need to send:<br /></span></span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">BELAY SYSTEMS</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">One GriGri, one Reverso</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">I can't think of a multipitch rock excursion on which I would not prefer this system. Belay the leader with the Grigri, bring up the second with the reverso in autoblock.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">To rappel, either simul-rap (only on bomber, easy raps), or fix the rope for the first person (with the gri).</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">There are a ton of advantages to this system. The belay is always auto-locking, which adds safety and allows the belayer to take care of the rope, snap photos, eat and drink etc. Change-overs are cake.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">When rapping on unknown terrain, having the leader rap on the grigri allows him to swing around, look for the next potential anchor, unsnag the rope, etc without worrying about holding onto the atc. And it's certainly much faster and easier than using a prussik autoblock backup.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">With the new mini grigri, I of course like this system even more. Lighter (duh!) and it works with skinnier cords.</span></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">HEADLAMPS</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">If you're worried about being out after dark, take one good headlamp (probably one with 3 AAA batteries and a good spotlight mode), and one smaller torch (probably one that runs on watch batteries, I like the petzl e-lite). You're partner can route-find with the powerful beam, and you can follow with the surprisingly bright little lamp. It's important to have fresh batteries, and it's always good to have spares if you're gonna be out for a few days. Lithium batteries are pricier, but lighter and stronger.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /><br /></span><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TEbX8cj0dRU/Ti40lctg6SI/AAAAAAAAC3I/ssjwfByQbQE/s1600/IMG_5219.JPG"><img style="display: block; margin: 0px auto 10px; text-align: center; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TEbX8cj0dRU/Ti40lctg6SI/AAAAAAAAC3I/ssjwfByQbQE/s1600/IMG_5219.JPG" alt="" border="0" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">Sometimes you can even use your ipod speaker as a headlamp! (not actually recommended)<br /></span></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">JACKETS</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">For most summer alpine rock climbs, you won't need a warm layer as the leader, since climbing will keep you warm. So bring one small puffy jacket for the team, have the second wear it at the belays, and bring a windbreaker for the leader. (It helps to climb with someone roughly the same size as yourself.) I put a lot of thought into clothing systems, so look for a future post with more details.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">SHOES</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">Kinda random, but sometimes you can coordinate footwear to save weight. Bring just one pair of running shoes, and have one team member run back to the base of the route to retrieve both climbers stuff. Or if the approach involves mellow snow and easy walking, bring one pair of runners and one pair of flip flops. The "leader" can kick good steps for the flopper.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">One quick climbs up El Cap, I've brought one pair of approach shoes for the second/jugger, and one pair of flops for the other climber to amble down the East Ledges.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">PACKS</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">On single day pushes in the mountains, you are often required to "carry over" on a route, meaning you can't leave your pack at the base and retrieve it later. So, as always, weight takes center stage. Coordinate with you partner to see who has the lightest pack, maybe 30-40L for a day trip. Take that, and have the second person backpack-coil the rope(s) and wear their harness. For extra comfort, when approaching in a harness, don't wear the leg loops, but rather cinch up the waist and let the leg-loops hang off to the side.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">On a two-day mission, you'll probably need two packs, but why take two big packs? Again, take one 30-40L main pack, and have the second carry a ultra-light 20l pack, one that stuffs down into nothing when not loaded, plus the ropes (backpack-coiled). When climbing, the second carries the big pack, and the leader has the option of leading with the small pack or stuffing it into the big pack.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">BIVY GEAR, etc.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">If your gonna be out for a few days, you can find a myriad of corner-cutting, weight saving tricks. For eating, bring just (you guessed it) ONE setup, and share. One small bowl/mug and spork are sufficient for eating re-hydrated meals, or you can even skip the bowl and eat out of the packet. Once done with the meal, cut the bottom of the meal pouch off and save it for use as a bowl or cup in the next meal. </span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">For a sleeping kit, of course it all depends on expected conditions. Often when attempting a rock climbing objective, we rally during expected mild weather windows, so it is possible to go light. Just one night out? Consider sharing one sleeping bag, and just using it as a blanket for both climbers. Try and find a waterproof bivy sack with a full zip, so that you can unzip it to use flat as a ground cloth, or tarp if there's precip.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">For longer journeys, I usually think that the benefit of warmer, more restful sleep justify the weight of two sleeping bags, but of course still look to use a light bag in conjunction with the other gear your carrying. If you're gonna bring a puffy belay jacket, look for a specialized bag with distributed insulation, warmer from the waist down, lighter from the waist up (where you'll be wearing the jacket anyways. If you're not gonna share a sleeping bag, look for one with a half-zip, or no zip. </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">OTHER</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size:medium;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">Don't get locked in to what you MUST have on your harness. I've seen so many climbers obsessed with ALWAYS carrying cordalette, extra lockers, bulk webbing, knife, nut tool, whistle, etc etc etc. Of course sometimes as the second you might need slings in a self rescue scenario, but know how to rig everything with the slings and whatnot that you carry anyways. If the route is clean and well traveled, the leader doesn't need a nuttool, and you NEVER need rap rings unless you're trying to establish a popular rappel route.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';"><br /></span></div></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family:'trebuchet ms';">More unsolicited advice to come, along with more pictures!</span></div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com15tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-29748890616181667422011-10-14T14:07:00.000-07:002011-10-14T14:10:20.227-07:00Blake made a movieBlake made a hilarious video about our week long backpacking and climbing trip this past August, which resulted in three bitchin new routes in the Pasayten wilderness of Washington and BC.<div><br /></div><div>Dig it:</div><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/30197978?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" height="225" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/30197978">Cathedral Provincial Park / Pasayten Wilderness</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user2240638">Blake Herrington</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p><p><br /></p><p>To Blake: I love the music, but where's the fishing footage? You've gotta be proud, we certainly wouldn't have sent without those hard earned calories.</p>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com6tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-2798915515385567502011-09-06T10:33:00.000-07:002011-09-06T10:33:16.037-07:00THIN RED LINE<div>
The "Thin Red Line" is the proudest, most direct line up the East Face of Liberty Bell, one of the proudest and most imposing faces of white granite outside of California. First done as a cutting edge grade VI aid climb in 1967, it was recently freed by Washington hardman Mikey Schaefer. It has actually attracted a decent number of free repeats in the past few years. So far the reviews have been STELLAR, and now I can add my (mostly worthless) voice to that consensus:</div>
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<b>The Thin Red Line is the 3rd best long granite climb in the low-to-mid 5.12 range that I've ever been on!!</b></div>
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It's so good, I figured I would write out some beta for all y'all granite-loving hard-people out there. So, the spraydown:</div>
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<i>Blake stemming it out on P3. P3 continues underclinging left under the white overhang, and then P4 continues left out the adjacent, darker-colored roof.</i><br />
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<b>Approach</b>: Park on Highway 20 at a pullout (east side of the road) below the East Face of Liberty Bell. This pullout is ~1/2 wast from the visitor center/picnic area. A climber's trail ascends the hill to the base of the face, find it by located a small pond on the west side of the road. The trail starts on the left (south) side of this pond. Follow the climber's trail, generally staying to the right (north) if you lose the trail. There will almost certainly be a snowfield at the base; it faces east, and thus gets morning sun and should be easily navigable in running shoes (Blake did it in flip flops). Car to base of climb: ~45 minutes.</div>
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TRL generally ascends the left side of the main face. To find the route, look for a ~60m long, left-facing corner and roof system starting about 55m off the ground. This is the route. There is a tatty old fixed line on the face, TRL is to the left of this. </div>
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<b>P1:</b> <b>5.10-, 35m</b> We climbed the first pitch of "Freedom or Death", and recommend it! It starts at a ledgy section of rock, maybe 10m to the right of a short RF corner. The first pitch has four bolts and ends at a set of chains. There is also a bolted lone that starts in the same spot and goes to the right, this probably takes you to the same spot, but I don't know anything about it.</div>
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Supplement the 4 bolts with some gear as you face climb on good little edges and flakes. This is a good warmup for the style of the route. Clip the first set of chains, and then move down and right 4m to another 2 bolt station and belay there.</div>
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<b>P2: 5.11, 20m</b> Move right off the anchor to a small RF corner through a low roof. Climb past a few pins, and then continue up the splitter into the large LF corner (mentioned above). Build a gear belay here.</div>
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<b>P3: 5.11, 25m</b> Ascend the obvious corner. Ignore the two-bolt station and line of bolts on the face to the left. The corner becomes a white, left-angling roof, and leads to a three-bolt belay stance.</div>
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<b>P4: 5.10+, 20m</b> Continue up the corner above, and then traverse left under the big roof. At the lip, step left out from the corner onto the face, and make some moves left past a pin, then up (you can clip a bolt here from "Freedom or Death"), and then quickly back right into the original corner system. Upon reentering the corner, move right again across a juggy flake to a 2-bolt belay ledge.</div>
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<i>P3 and P4 can link, use runners well</i></div>
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<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QR2Sll67pAY/TmZYBrsH5gI/AAAAAAAAC7o/6tiijbkgYEQ/s1600/crux.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-QR2Sll67pAY/TmZYBrsH5gI/AAAAAAAAC7o/6tiijbkgYEQ/s400/crux.jpg" width="298" /></a></div>
<i>Blake following the crux pitch.</i><br />
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<b>P5: 5.12, 35m</b> The original route went straight up the crack above the belay, and then eventually penji-ed rightwards. The free variation face climbs rightwards immediately past three bolts to a prominent LF corner system. Gain the corner and climb it, eventually passing 4 bolts (crux). The hard climbing is sustained and involved, and can be solved with good technique and creativity. This pitch ends at a 2-bolt belay stance. You can continue up another ~6m to a better stance and build a gear belay if you'd prefer.</div>
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<a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Z04BQrBI9Q/TmZYSclNIDI/AAAAAAAAC7s/DSe9QweKnN0/s1600/reach.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-0Z04BQrBI9Q/TmZYSclNIDI/AAAAAAAAC7s/DSe9QweKnN0/s400/reach.jpg" width="400" /></a></div>
<i>Blake making the final reach on the crux pitch. This move is very span-dependent.</i><br />
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<b>P6: 5.12-, 22m </b>Up the corner, past 2 fixed heads and a small tree, to a double roof system. Do not undercling out left, but rather pull up and over the first roof. Clip a slew of fixed hardware (some good, some mank), and then commit to the burly second roof. Solid gear is available just above the lip, and is strenuous to place before pulling the crux. Continue up the crack to a small tree and many pins to belay.</div>
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<b>P7: 5.9, 40m </b>Up the corner, then step right when the crack steepens and banks left (fixed gear here). Follow this new crack system easily up and right to a large ledge, and then belay at 2 bolts on the right side of the ledge.</div>
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<b>P8: 5.11+, 20m</b> Ascend the less-than-vertical twin crack system off the ledge, passing some heads and a pin. The gear here is better than it appears from below. Once the climbing eases, you can move left onto an easy ramp system to avoid grass. The ramp rejoins the main crack shortly, and you can build a gear belay in the crack at a small stance just above.</div>
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<b>P9: 5.10, 35m </b>Up the corner. At the top, move right below a roof (past a small tree), and then up short RF corner to a large ledge (M&M Ledge). Build a belay here.</div>
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<i>It's certainly possible to link 9&10, again use long runners. A 70m rope might be helpful so that you have extra rope on M&M ledge to position the belay.</i></div>
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<b>P10: 5.7, 60m</b> Move right on M&M to find a left-leaning, right-facing corner ramp system. Climb this, eventually gaining a blocky left-facing corner system (it's possible to face climb to the left of the blocky corner). Chimney past a protruding block to gain a comfy ledge.</div>
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<b>P11 and on: 5.6, ~150m </b>Follow the blocky (but surprisingly solid) crack corner system above, moving right to a 2-bolt station, and then across a slab up and right to more cracks that gain the North crest of the mountain. The climbing gets progressively easier at this point, so stop and unrope wherever you'd like. A bit more 3rd classing brings you to THE SUMMIT!</div>
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<i>Chilling on the summit after our SEND!</i><br />
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And finally, here it is, the long awaited, much speculated over, highly regarded:<br />
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TOP TEN LONG GRANITE CLIMBS (from low-to-mid 5.12)</div>
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10. Hearts and Arrows, the Diamond on Long's Peak, Colorado</div>
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9. Let it Burn, Colchuck Balanced Rock, Washington</div>
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8. No Te Olvidaremos, Torre Principal, Frey, Argentina</div>
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7. The Rostrum (with Alien Finish), Yosemite Valley, California</div>
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6. University Wall, the Chief, Squamish</div>
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5. RNWF of Half Dome, Yosemite Valley, California</div>
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4. Tague Yer Time, Black Canyon, Colorado</div>
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3. Thin Red Line, Liberty Bell, Washington</div>
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2. Romantic Warrior, the Needles, California</div>
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1. The Venturi Effect, Incredible Hulk, California</div>
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Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-75958977161267990492011-08-26T07:25:00.000-07:002011-08-26T14:36:38.147-07:00Ain't nothing better...<a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G2xRH4ikSdw/TlfP6diSISI/AAAAAAAAC6o/29kyOhb1dds/s1600/gg.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-G2xRH4ikSdw/TlfP6diSISI/AAAAAAAAC6o/29kyOhb1dds/s400/gg.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645209261199991074" /></a><div><b><span class="Apple-style-span">...than the summer in the Northwest</span></b></div><div>
<br /></div><div><a href="http://grooveshark.com/s/The+Inkwell/2McoeT?src=5" target="_blank">Click here to open the music in a new window</a>
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<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vjUusWRuI6w/TlfR_TAWhSI/AAAAAAAAC7A/5epclxvqn0M/s1600/cbr%2Bsunset.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-vjUusWRuI6w/TlfR_TAWhSI/AAAAAAAAC7A/5epclxvqn0M/s400/cbr%2Bsunset.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645211543295919394" /></a>Top Photo: Garrett Grove cranking the excellent corner pitch of "The West Face of Colchuck Balanced Rock" (5.11-).</div><div>This Photo: Colchuck Lake, from the route.</div><div>
<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CocB1gz53A8/Tle58vUyv1I/AAAAAAAAC6Y/-wcgbOLMBsA/s1600/cbr%2Blake.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-CocB1gz53A8/Tle58vUyv1I/AAAAAAAAC6Y/-wcgbOLMBsA/s400/cbr%2Blake.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645185111079173970" /></a></div><div>Blake and Garrett approaching above Colchuck Lake.
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<br /></div><div>I've climbed with many Washingtonians in the past few years, and would all probably tell me that I was spoiled on my first rock climb here in the Apple State. We climbed the above pictured West Face of CBR, and the rock was amazing! </div><div>The West Face is the original route on the face, and now goes free at 5.11, but there are scads of other good lines, many of which have been FAed in the past few years. And maybe some still juss a-wayten thar...</div><div>
<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HOHjEwZuYY0/TletnVBbnhI/AAAAAAAAC5w/5jV8g1QuCaY/s1600/IMG_5459.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 302px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-HOHjEwZuYY0/TletnVBbnhI/AAAAAAAAC5w/5jV8g1QuCaY/s400/IMG_5459.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645171549101858322" /></a>Near the summit of CBR, both Garrett and Blake ply their respective trades: Garrett shooting, Blake doing his patented rope-flip-coil-pose.
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<br /></div><div>Speaking of good rock, if you are in the area, be sure to check out the new #9 route on my personal list of"TOP TEN LONG GRANITE ROUTES (from low-mid 5.12)"<b>: </b><b>LET IT BURN </b></div><div><b>
<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mg1Xe3TGgP4/TlfStM9h9oI/AAAAAAAAC7I/0Yn_BXoiKrQ/s1600/garrett-grove-washington-climbing-1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-mg1Xe3TGgP4/TlfStM9h9oI/AAAAAAAAC7I/0Yn_BXoiKrQ/s400/garrett-grove-washington-climbing-1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645212331947456130" /></a></b></div><div><div style="text-align: left;">Me leading on the new #9. Garrett Grove Photo.</div></div><div>
<br /></div><div>It's also on Colchuck Balanced Rock, just left of the West Face route. It was put up last year (!) by the local rock crushing crew, and it provides many hundreds of feet of granite bliss and full-face grins.</div><div><b>
<br /></b></div><div><a href="http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2011/08/go-climb-let-it-burn.html">Here's a link</a> to Blake post about this climb with topo and description.</div><div>
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<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H7kqDQOR8NU/TlfQZIhzsEI/AAAAAAAAC64/rfE-3AfD11A/s1600/garrett-grove-washington-climbing-2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 266px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-H7kqDQOR8NU/TlfQZIhzsEI/AAAAAAAAC64/rfE-3AfD11A/s400/garrett-grove-washington-climbing-2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645209788136796226" /></a>Hanging on a ledge on North Early Winter Spire, Washington Pass. Garrett Grove Photo.</div><div>
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<br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HOgMZiVErlk/TletHdCFlDI/AAAAAAAAC5I/Oxp1BHd7oHw/s1600/amphitheatre.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-HOgMZiVErlk/TletHdCFlDI/AAAAAAAAC5I/Oxp1BHd7oHw/s400/amphitheatre.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645171001496278066" /></a>After more climbing and cragging in the Leavenworth area, and much good eating and drinking (peach whiskey, hard apple cider, heaps of flavorful local microbrews), Blake and I needed to "harden the F up".</div><div>
<br /></div><div>So, we hiked 20 miles back into the Pasayten Wilderness in north-central Washington and spent a week exploring and putting up a new route on each of the three major faces in the area. Above is Amphitheater peak.</div><div>
<br />Huge thanks to the <a href="http://www.mazamas.org/">Mazamas</a> Club of Portland, Oregon for some generous support that helped us to make this trip happen!</div><div>
<br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EaT6T5in-XQ/TletL-vk7hI/AAAAAAAAC5Q/eFBV1RI5YlQ/s1600/burrito.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EaT6T5in-XQ/TletL-vk7hI/AAAAAAAAC5Q/eFBV1RI5YlQ/s400/burrito.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645171079264923154" /></a>We still managed to eat well.
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<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NQqq47nZer8/TletPOa3ffI/AAAAAAAAC5Y/koVmBnpS5JQ/s1600/cathedral.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-NQqq47nZer8/TletPOa3ffI/AAAAAAAAC5Y/koVmBnpS5JQ/s400/cathedral.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645171135012634098" /></a>The 300m South face of Cathedral Peak. We climbed a new route on the right side of the main face, which we called "Last Rights" (the mountain has a Catholic naming theme, and we kept traversing right to avoid seamed out cracks). Again, <a href="http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2011/08/new-international-trade-routes.html">check out Blake's blog</a> for more photos and info from the new routes.</div><div>
<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u5xd5Rt0i1k/TletyUlSANI/AAAAAAAAC54/-_DAY8M9jug/s1600/IMG_5603.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-u5xd5Rt0i1k/TletyUlSANI/AAAAAAAAC54/-_DAY8M9jug/s400/IMG_5603.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645171737962348754" /></a>Blake pulling into a perfect splitter during our onsight FA of "Finger of Fatwa" (5.11, 175m) on Amphitheater Peak. (That peak had a Islamic naming theme, and the specific buttress is called the Middle Finger.)
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<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D50AlJ2exdI/Tlet4MoANVI/AAAAAAAAC6A/NN1bnQm2Hgo/s1600/IMG_5646.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D50AlJ2exdI/Tlet4MoANVI/AAAAAAAAC6A/NN1bnQm2Hgo/s400/IMG_5646.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645171838905496914" /></a>Much to our surprise, we met a few other climbers up there. Not so surprising, Blake knew them. So I got to make new friends and share some whiskey, and we did a bit of cragging at the base of Amphitheater. "Finger of Fatwa" is the left leaning, left facing corner and roof system near the left edge of the cliff.
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<br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sjLWas6gBkc/TletX6TAS1I/AAAAAAAAC5g/JFX7ssjkqJo/s1600/deacon.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sjLWas6gBkc/TletX6TAS1I/AAAAAAAAC5g/JFX7ssjkqJo/s400/deacon.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645171284229770066" /></a>Blake checking out the Deacon from our bivy.
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<br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YFGd-G8VmPs/TlethmCnS5I/AAAAAAAAC5o/OFNLGvwWgiU/s1600/deacon2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-YFGd-G8VmPs/TlethmCnS5I/AAAAAAAAC5o/OFNLGvwWgiU/s400/deacon2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645171450591005586" /></a>Blake about to hit a perfect hand crack on the 400m Northeast face of the Deacon. </div><div>
<br /></div><div>The Deacon definitely provided my favorite of the route of the trip; we climbed the obvious "line of strength" up the middle of the face. Even still, the mountain threw us a few curveballs and there were some exciting leads to connect incipient or flared crack systems.</div><div>
<br /></div><div>We ended up aiding one pitch, which appeared to be a totally closed seam from below. In reality, though, there were small RP placements and occasional fingerlocks under a layer of dirt and moss, and once we cleaned it out we rapped back down to redpoint the pitch at 5.11.</div><div>
<br /></div><div>We called this route "The Heretic" (5.11, 400m).
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<br /></div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cdRaC7XvJ9k/TleuJy1lyvI/AAAAAAAAC6I/AE2vMNhwBAo/s1600/tower.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 284px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cdRaC7XvJ9k/TleuJy1lyvI/AAAAAAAAC6I/AE2vMNhwBAo/s400/tower.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645172141220809458" /></a>This monstrosity is the giant, steep, and massively chossy East face of Tower Mountain. Located just north of the popular cragging at Washington Pass, this huge face had drawn the curiosity of Blake and fellow Washingtonian Sol Wertkin for quite a while, we the three of us kitted up to make an attempt. <div>
<br /></div><div>After hiking in and bivying, we got to the face, realized it was riddled with orange streaks of kitty-litter/oatmeal decomposing grano-diorite. Still, we picked out the path that included the most good dark-colored rock and gave it an effort. My lead lasted maybe one hour, gained about 40', and actually included chunks of solid rock. But unfortunately the solid rock did not coincide with continuous cracks, and the bleak prospects above combined to cause us to BAIL!
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<br />So, if you have lots of time on your hands, don't mind a little grainy-ness here and there (and everywhere), maybe load up your compressor and hike out to Tower Mountain. It could be the Cerro Torre of the North!
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<br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vMEzWFXVlqw/Tle6HBX4MII/AAAAAAAAC6g/4V0lYwyS-YA/s1600/campfire.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vMEzWFXVlqw/Tle6HBX4MII/AAAAAAAAC6g/4V0lYwyS-YA/s400/campfire.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5645185287722643586" /></a>No, there ain't nothing better than the summer in the Northwest. The weather has been immaculate, the food, beer, rock and friends have been plentiful, and the swimming holes can't be beat. If you don't mind long approaches and maybe a mosquito or two, pencil in some plans for next summer!
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<br />Coming up next, a description of the new #3 on my personal list of:
<br />TOP TEN LONG GRANITE ROUTES (from low-mid 5.12)</div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-91829699953148768552011-08-02T13:30:00.000-07:002011-08-02T14:31:22.518-07:00In the land of Red, White, and Granite.My late summer roadtrip has officially commenced, I'm in Squamish, and everything is going swimmingly. The mellow feel of this self-proclaimed "Outdoor Recreation Capital of Canada" is just the sort of atmosphere into which I can immerse myself, ignoring all outside happenings. <div><div><br /></div><div>Good friends, new and old, are in residence in this centre of granite action, and much climbing, beer drinking, scrabble, shooting-of-the-shit, and all-around chilling has been enjoyed by all.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zUXhngYrrk4/Tjhgmf1TdAI/AAAAAAAAC34/LwXQLmMHHmQ/s1600/sign.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-zUXhngYrrk4/Tjhgmf1TdAI/AAAAAAAAC34/LwXQLmMHHmQ/s400/sign.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636361148150543362" /></a>In Canada, by law, all signs must be printed in both English and French.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yewMVDsd9fY/TjhhpOFHsnI/AAAAAAAAC4A/FgMF5Dkb66o/s1600/cheif%2Bfrom%2Bcamp.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yewMVDsd9fY/TjhhpOFHsnI/AAAAAAAAC4A/FgMF5Dkb66o/s400/cheif%2Bfrom%2Bcamp.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636362294436278898" /></a>The view from our camp "down by the river". Kevin gives Bronson the layout of the Chief.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K5OKydKsCbE/TjhiT19Us6I/AAAAAAAAC4I/EjaBUf_wWVA/s1600/cody%252C%2Bloki.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K5OKydKsCbE/TjhiT19Us6I/AAAAAAAAC4I/EjaBUf_wWVA/s400/cody%252C%2Bloki.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636363026695500706" /></a>Cody, who I met back in Boulder in the Spring, is joining all the cool kids in Canada at the moment. Here, Cody, Loki, and Kathleen enjoy a post-cragging snack.</div></div></div><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qy8XvW8LiEI/TjhjFH370BI/AAAAAAAAC4Q/jLk9LyauA1k/s1600/uwall%2Bp1.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-Qy8XvW8LiEI/TjhjFH370BI/AAAAAAAAC4Q/jLk9LyauA1k/s400/uwall%2Bp1.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636363873318326290" /></a>This and the rest of the photos are from yesterday, when Cody and I climbed until out eyes bugged out. Here, I'm following the first pitch of the famous University Wall. Cody put in an inspiring effort leading this wet, overhanging OW slot. Good on ya, buddy!<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6goE-IoOZw/TjhjiBLyJoI/AAAAAAAAC4Y/p-7fc6_XtRM/s1600/town.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-j6goE-IoOZw/TjhjiBLyJoI/AAAAAAAAC4Y/p-7fc6_XtRM/s400/town.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636364369738737282" /></a>A bug-eyed view of town, from the Chief.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K9IG73f-FVY/Tjhm2y8AsxI/AAAAAAAAC44/Qu0IEAiOvZ0/s1600/chief%2Bfrom%2Btown.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-K9IG73f-FVY/Tjhm2y8AsxI/AAAAAAAAC44/Qu0IEAiOvZ0/s400/chief%2Bfrom%2Btown.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636368025226621714" /></a>The Chief, from town. Both the U-wall and the Grand Wall climb up the first two thirds of the right side (and then traverse off a ledge).<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nYdDidlVwBU/TjhncbkY4MI/AAAAAAAAC5A/U3u_1Upga6Y/s1600/stemming.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-nYdDidlVwBU/TjhncbkY4MI/AAAAAAAAC5A/U3u_1Upga6Y/s400/stemming.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636368671788556482" /></a>Cody leading a stemming pitch high on U-wall. Lots of stemming on that route.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XjRhNRiBa5Q/Tjhkiqeg_oI/AAAAAAAAC4o/3wvL7URKQ1o/s1600/scott%2Band%2Bcody.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-XjRhNRiBa5Q/Tjhkiqeg_oI/AAAAAAAAC4o/3wvL7URKQ1o/s400/scott%2Band%2Bcody.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636365480334786178" /></a>Finishing U-wall. We attempted a harder "variation" (actually the original aid line), the Shadows pitch (12d). Like a bi-polar supermodel, it drew me in with it's aesthetic perfection, and then denied me with it's fickle, ungrasp-able nature. Or something like that.<div><br /></div><div>I fell many times on the ridiculous stemming pitch, and ended up pulling on gear. Other than that, I didn't fall all day (the rest of the route is 5.12a).<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kW3JDjp_7OQ/TjhkODPHU_I/AAAAAAAAC4g/lm9qvFypGQQ/s1600/pillar.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-kW3JDjp_7OQ/TjhkODPHU_I/AAAAAAAAC4g/lm9qvFypGQQ/s400/pillar.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636365126203823090" /></a>After ambling down the descent trail (which is awesome: wooden stairs and trail-marking reflectors, Thanks Canada!), we ate lunch in the parking lot and re-stoked. Here we are on the Grand Wall, with Cody leading the Split Pillar.<br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lRR9bSTlYEE/TjhmhfA0ikI/AAAAAAAAC4w/UYhrvJ51AIM/s1600/cody%2Bgrand%2Bwall.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lRR9bSTlYEE/TjhmhfA0ikI/AAAAAAAAC4w/UYhrvJ51AIM/s400/cody%2Bgrand%2Bwall.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5636367659100834370" /></a>Cody starting up "Perry's Lieback" on the Grand Wall, as the evening light gets good. We ended up finishing the route in daylight and not even breaking out headlamps on the descent. We sent Apron Strings to the Grand (10 pitches, 5.11a A0) in a total of 2 hrs and 40 min, with no simuling.<br />----------------------------</div><div>Hopefully there'll be much more Canadian sending to come. Earlier in the trip, my friend Brad and I climbed "Alaska Highway", and I can't wait to get back there to finish the "Northern Lights" linkup of AK Highway to the Calling. Gotta keep the onsight rolling!</div><div><br /></div><div>But first, I'm headed briefly back to the States to once again join Blake, Garrett et al in some North Cascades adventure. More to come!</div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-87355159390444765242011-07-25T19:04:00.000-07:002011-07-25T20:48:16.917-07:00Training, Dreaming, Doing<div>This is an attempt to make up for my recent dearth of content with an extended mega post. So before you go any further, open this website in another window:</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.blogger.com/www.grooveshark.com">www.GrooveShark.com</a></div><div><br /></div><div>It's a free music streaming site. It's super easy, the kind of thing seems to fulfill the best promises of the internet. If you haven't yet heard it, I recommend My Morning Jacket's excellent new album, "Circuital".</div><div><br /></div><div>In Colorado in the summertime, the name of the game is elevation. <i>Semper excelsius</i>. In order to escape the constant heat of the plains, anyone with a day off and a working car will escape to the higher mountains and enter a idyllic world of clean air and cool temps. Starting early season at Independence Pass and Rock of Ages (see two posts below, the Wasp), I got my granite fix on solid single pitch rock. This season was one of the snowiest in recent years, as it was all across the Mountain West, so post-holing through waist deep snow, and trying to avoid waterfalls of run-off were necessary activities.</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-37l8BlKl5qI/Ti2wsgxRRYI/AAAAAAAAC1o/Cl6dRHayeSo/s1600/rob%2Bwild%2Bwall.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-37l8BlKl5qI/Ti2wsgxRRYI/AAAAAAAAC1o/Cl6dRHayeSo/s400/rob%2Bwild%2Bwall.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633352987667678594" /></a><i>Rob Kepley on "Problem Child" (5.12b) at Independence Pass</i><br /><br /></div><div>Come the solstice, the ever-intense Colorado sunshine starts to do it's work and the snowpack shrinks visibly every day. Soon Mt. Evans is in, a road-served mini-alpine cragging area at 12-13k. I spent a crystal day cruising on the Black Wall with my good friend Zack Durbin. </div><div><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_y798_NVVWw/Ti4TYXjC8RI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/ookMGng62q8/s1600/goats.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 206px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-_y798_NVVWw/Ti4TYXjC8RI/AAAAAAAAC2Y/ookMGng62q8/s400/goats.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633461493245866258" /></a><i>The Local Fauna</i><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-20Vy68A5uAQ/Ti4SzN29INI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/U291hstSaAE/s1600/IMG_4845.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-20Vy68A5uAQ/Ti4SzN29INI/AAAAAAAAC2Q/U291hstSaAE/s400/IMG_4845.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633460854989856978" /></a><i>Zack and I at a belay on "Good Evans" (5.10+)</i><br /><br />A few days later, with local super-crusher Joe Mills, I rapped into the radical "P Wall". We ambled up "Rocky Mountain High" (3 pitches, 5.12), an enticing line featuring a steep and leaning dihedral, just the kind of climbing I can sink my teeth into. Check out <a href="http://pizem.blogspot.com/2010/06/possibilty-wall-mt-evans-colorado.html">Rob Pizem's site</a>, or send me a message for more info on the P Wall. Joe found a project he could sink his iron-strong fingers into: a gorgeous, and severely overhanging, splitter finger crack. Though he just TRed on it, he though a mid 5.14 grade might be accurate. Good luck on that one, Joe!</div><div><br /></div><div>Finally, as June gave way to July, all Front Range rock climbers started getting antsy and checking the weather forecast twice a day. The best climbing in the state was finally getting dry and warm, it was time to head to Rocky Mountain National Park!</div><div><br /></div><div>Of course, Rock of Ages is in RMNP, and I'd been there a few times in May. But the real treasures of the park are at slightly higher elevations: the alpine big walls. Perfect granite abounds in the high valleys of "the Park", enticing otherwise-lazy climbers to set alarms for 2am, pre-load the coffee makers, and try and beat the monsoonal thunderstorms.</div><div><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JnWqld9ox4s/Ti4VOznQAaI/AAAAAAAAC2g/T08gCmghztk/s1600/weird%2Bsky.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 182px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JnWqld9ox4s/Ti4VOznQAaI/AAAAAAAAC2g/T08gCmghztk/s400/weird%2Bsky.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633463528004256162" /></a></div><div><i>Storm clouds swirl over the Spearhead</i></div><div><br /></div><div>At least that had been my tactic last year: making one-day, 20+ hour single day trips. This year, though, we got smart and just hiked in a massive load of food and gear to stay for a week. With 10 other like-minded granite connoisseurs, I hiked into RMNP's Glacier Gorge and spent 5 perfect days eating well, listening to music, playing "Alpine Scrabble", bouldering, and otherwise crushing the game of life. Of course, we climbed as well, both on Spearhead and Arrowhead.</div><div><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fNKFyaGnA9Q/Ti3bWFhazAI/AAAAAAAAC1w/MDHs5qOF5fs/s1600/spearhead%2Bstitch.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 226px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-fNKFyaGnA9Q/Ti3bWFhazAI/AAAAAAAAC1w/MDHs5qOF5fs/s400/spearhead%2Bstitch.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633399881396308994" /></a><i>Our 2-bdrm deeelux bivy cave, with a pretty bitchin backyard crag</i><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yc63nMaVcNc/Ti41uB4wZxI/AAAAAAAAC3g/3b2ZGoATlAs/s1600/srhd%2Bsunrise.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Yc63nMaVcNc/Ti41uB4wZxI/AAAAAAAAC3g/3b2ZGoATlAs/s400/srhd%2Bsunrise.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633499248783812370" /></a><i>Morning sun on the Spearhead</i><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FXttj7O2QOU/Ti41HXGyM6I/AAAAAAAAC3Q/O54oRUcEAts/s1600/spearhead%2Bsnow%2Bapproach.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 332px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-FXttj7O2QOU/Ti41HXGyM6I/AAAAAAAAC3Q/O54oRUcEAts/s400/spearhead%2Bsnow%2Bapproach.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633498584464896930" /></a><i>Zack and Keri approach up the snowfield</i><br /><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uiMLybTRVDc/Ti41jMr-WrI/AAAAAAAAC3Y/Y402XeB6-bQ/s1600/graham%2Bsprhd.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 310px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uiMLybTRVDc/Ti41jMr-WrI/AAAAAAAAC3Y/Y402XeB6-bQ/s400/graham%2Bsprhd.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633499062704429746" /></a><i>Graham and Lauryn on "The Barb" (5.10).</i><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DUspfBwp9O8/Ti3vQO1VA3I/AAAAAAAAC2A/N_Si-Hn4J0k/s1600/IMG_5089.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-DUspfBwp9O8/Ti3vQO1VA3I/AAAAAAAAC2A/N_Si-Hn4J0k/s400/IMG_5089.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633421771049075570" /></a><i>Graham gets aggro as the Alpine Scrabble game intensifies. If you own a scrabble set, you can make an Alpine scrabble set with all the normal letter pieces, plus a piece of blue foam for the board. Doubles as sleeping/sitting mat (but not during play). </i><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YxCD2tuugnE/Ti3ui98ilCI/AAAAAAAAC14/40nHlEeHGC8/s1600/IMG_5085.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-YxCD2tuugnE/Ti3ui98ilCI/AAAAAAAAC14/40nHlEeHGC8/s400/IMG_5085.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633420993421808674" /></a><i>Graham, Blake and I climbing as a team of three on "Airhead" (5.11+).</i></div><div><br /></div><div>The week in Glacier Gorge was about as close to my vision of rock climber heaven as is possible on this earth. The weather provided a constant source of entertainment, making violent swings from morning sun, to midday hailstorms, to golden late afternoon bliss, to evening calm. A small herd of elk cows and their calves meandered about the "krummholtz" (German for "crooked wood", the mini versions of normal trees that grow just along the tree-line), and Ptarmigans (Alpine Chickens) dodged in and out of the rocks, tempting us with their slow reflexes.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2CnFy5F8DUM/Ti4Xl9eNoAI/AAAAAAAAC2o/VDLJxhzt8-8/s1600/IMG_5065.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-2CnFy5F8DUM/Ti4Xl9eNoAI/AAAAAAAAC2o/VDLJxhzt8-8/s400/IMG_5065.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633466124810952706" /></a><i>The Glacier Gorge elk herd explore our camp</i></div><div><br /></div><div>From a training perspective, the week up at 11k was just what my lungs needed. Everything was now in place to tackle the biggest and coolest objective in the Park: THE BIG D!</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l2zHbofpSDU/Ti3wVWyQvNI/AAAAAAAAC2I/J_U3BUAiK6E/s1600/diamond%2Bsunrise.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-l2zHbofpSDU/Ti3wVWyQvNI/AAAAAAAAC2I/J_U3BUAiK6E/s400/diamond%2Bsunrise.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633422958594669778" /></a><i>THE DIAMOND</i><br /><br /></div><div>In the past few years I've climbed nearly all the "trade routes" on the Diamond, which are established free climbs from 5.10a to 5.12a, all located on the left, friendly, side of the massive cliff. The left side is graced by a multitude of splitter crack systems, immaculate golden granite, and plenty of holds. Routes like the Casual, Yellow Wall, D7, and Pervertical Sanctuary see over 90% of the climbing traffic on the Diamond for this reason.</div><div><br /></div><div>Last season I attempted a route on the right side, the newly freed "Full House", with my friend Joel. Though we were excited about the possibility of adventure, we were disappointing to find less than stellar rock quality, and ended up bailing from about half-height. While on the route, though, we saw another party that had rapped in to a route in the center of the wall. We later found out they were Chris Weidner and Bruce Miller, and they were working on a new free route, Hearts and Arrows, which they later freed.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /><a href="http://mountainproject.com/images/12/83/107211283_large_6176d6.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://mountainproject.com/images/12/83/107211283_large_6176d6.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></div><div><br />Still anxious to explore some less traveled terrain on the big D, I enlisted my friend <a href="http://howthewestwasclimbed.blogspot.com/">Rob Kepley</a> to go give it a shot. Leaving heinously early (2:30am!) from Boulder, we make the dark and winding drive quickly and were soon hiking rapidly uphill through the cool and crisp high country air. Reaching the base shortly after sunrise, we used Chris and Bruce's excellent topo to locate the line. After some wandering and wet early pitches, we reached the incredible crux crack system. Nearly bisecting the Diamond, the crux consists of twin parallel splitters, both providing hand and finger jams. A relentless 180' lead scaled the vertical wall, with not another soul in sight. Does climbing get any better!?!</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsQQ6wHGDJM/Ti4dOPwOP9I/AAAAAAAAC2w/zChHHeyFRJA/s1600/Rob%2Bon%2Bha.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-ZsQQ6wHGDJM/Ti4dOPwOP9I/AAAAAAAAC2w/zChHHeyFRJA/s400/Rob%2Bon%2Bha.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633472314471235538" /></a><i>Rob following the long crux lead on "Hearts and Arrows" (5.12b). Rob graciously let me lead every pitch, and I onsighted the route for it's second free ascent.</i></div><div><br /></div><div>Impatient for more thin-air cranking, I eagerly agreed to join Joe Mills for another Diamond session two days later. We were psyched on "Eroica", but ended up bailing for less committing climbing on the left side when the line looked wet and the clouds threatened. We had a blast cruising around on the classics "Yellow Wall" (5.11a R) and "Ariana" (5.12a). We had been talking all day of trying a triple diamond day, and were half inclined to huck a lap on the Casual route after Ariana. We opted not to, though, mostly because we were making the rappels with two 70m ropes, which is a royal pain in the ass. And because I had a different sort of "triple" plans two days later.</div><div>-------------------------</div><div>I finished out "Diamond Week" with my mainstay partner in all thing pointless and adventurous: Blake Herrington. Intrigued by a linkup done by local badasses Kelly Cordes and Jonny Copp (RIP), we couldn't stop saying the words "Triple Lindy". Cordes and Copp devised a linkup of the three biggest rock faces in RMNP: the East face of Long's Peak, the Northeast Face of Cheifshead, and the East face of Mt. Alice. They christened it "The Triple Lindy", in honor of Rodney Dangerfeild and his <a href="http://www.facebook.com/l.php?u=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DrDMMYT3vkTk&h=oAQBvD37c">futuristic, surely-impossible diving feat</a> in the movie "Back to School".</div><div><br /></div><div>They pulled off the Triple in just under 24 hours back in 2003, and it has remained one of the biggest climbing days ever accomplished in RMNP. Blake and I couldn't stop thinking, dreaming, and planning.</div><div><br />3am- We depart Blake's car in the Long's Peak trailhead. The near perfect weather forecast has drawn the hiking masses to the park on this Friday morning, and the lot is almost full! We are rolling out light, with just one 7om rope and a tiny backpack stuffed with snacks and jackets. My rack is still stashed up at the Diamond from the previous climb, so were able to take the ~5 mile trail at a blazing pace.</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TEbX8cj0dRU/Ti40lctg6SI/AAAAAAAAC3I/ssjwfByQbQE/s1600/IMG_5219.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-TEbX8cj0dRU/Ti40lctg6SI/AAAAAAAAC3I/ssjwfByQbQE/s400/IMG_5219.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633498001853966626" /></a><i>Blake approaching the Diamond</i></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div>Reaching the cliff before dawn, we used rocks to chops steps up the icy snowfield to the base of "The Crack of Delight" (5.7, 3 pitches), a slightly more involved alternative to the normal fourth class "North Chimney" approach. We simuled the easy, wide, and wet crack and were soon soaking in the orange morning light on Broadway.</div><div><br /></div><div>Our path up the Diamond would be "Pervertical Sanctuary", a classic 5.10+ up the left side. We simuled out a 100m pitch, and then I linked both 5.10 pitches into a mega 70m lead. We then traversed to the "Forrest Finish", a rarely-done wet and mungy crack system that's only appeal is ease of passage to the top of the wall.</div><div><br /></div><div>We were startled by the massive and motley assortment of hikers on Long's broad summit, but we raced through the crowd and ran down the descent trail. We had planned to boot-ski down the Trough, a long couloir on the west face, but the sun had not yet softened it's icy surface, so skiing would surely turn into death sliding. So we walked down the talus, bummer.</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qHvTweuDeaQ/Ti4esytB3YI/AAAAAAAAC24/xe_fjxVk0rg/s1600/IMG_5071.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 273px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-qHvTweuDeaQ/Ti4esytB3YI/AAAAAAAAC24/xe_fjxVk0rg/s400/IMG_5071.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633473938760785282" /></a><i>The West face of Long's on the left, with the Trough visible (the big snowy coulior). The Spearhead is the pyramidal peak in the center right foreground, and the Cheifshead is out of the frame to the right.</i><br /><br /></div><div>Next up, we planned to make a minor detour from the original Cordes-Copp linkup. The Spearhead was sitting in front of us just begging to be climbed, so we obliged by rambling up "The Barb" (5.10). Though it ends well before the summit proper, we convinced ourselves to maintain "real mountain" standards and make the summit slog.</div><div><br /></div><div>A creative traversing decent brought us to Cheifshead. Just last summer, Blake and his friends Graham and Joe put up a new route on the left side of the face, "Flight of the Kiwi" (5.10+). Since Blake knew it well, he tied in for the lead and cranked out the high-quality and sometimes runout pitches. Content with low-pressure following, I stayed in my approach shoes and enjoyed some of the most relaxing and fun climbing of the day.</div><div><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s6fcpGbF0Xc/Ti4fyPnkp6I/AAAAAAAAC3A/0ED0NU1WWLk/s1600/IMG_5256.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-s6fcpGbF0Xc/Ti4fyPnkp6I/AAAAAAAAC3A/0ED0NU1WWLk/s400/IMG_5256.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633475131933501346" /></a><i>Blake heading down off the Cheifshead summit with the big East face of Mt. Alice visible on the left.</i><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nq4iCHQD8WE/Ti417AM8lEI/AAAAAAAAC3o/sT0IdQ8qNaw/s1600/IMG_5274.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Nq4iCHQD8WE/Ti417AM8lEI/AAAAAAAAC3o/sT0IdQ8qNaw/s400/IMG_5274.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633499471669924930" /></a><i>Pretty flowers on Mt. Alice.</i><br /><br /></div><div>From the Cheifshead summit, we tried to memorize the terrain ahead: a beautiful grassy ridge wound to the south and connected with Mt. Alice. We romped along the ridge, glad to find flowing water and colorful wildflowers. After some fun snow sliding and not-so-fun snow traversing, we embarked up a long fourth class ramp to the base of the standard East Face route (5.8). I led a long simul pitch, and then tacked on two more pitches to top out the face, just as the sun set. For the fourth time that day, we slogged to a talus-pile summit, witnessing the final orange glow in the west. To the east, the lights of the Front Range cities glowed orange as well, and were punctuated by brilliant blasts of lightning, far enough away to be entertaining.</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JG8jKD3bLKQ/Ti435JWxtlI/AAAAAAAAC3w/xcQ-7SOIQBw/s1600/IMG_5286.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-JG8jKD3bLKQ/Ti435JWxtlI/AAAAAAAAC3w/xcQ-7SOIQBw/s400/IMG_5286.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5633501638790592082" /></a><i>Summit #4, Mt. Alice</i></div><div><br /></div><div>Here my memory gets hazy, as we hiked FOR EVER to get out of that valley. I think it was 8 miles back to the car, which we reached at 2:45 am, for a 23:45 roundtrip time. YEEEHAWW for the Three-and-a-half Lindy!</div><div><br /></div><div>------------------------------------</div><div><br /></div><div>So where to now? CANADA! Yes, I'm leaving this week for the Great White North with all sorts of cool folks to climb with and big mountains to send. Check back soon!</div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-13805435608876027402011-06-13T13:23:00.000-07:002011-06-13T14:24:17.529-07:006 Billion Stolen, 823 Billion WastedI know I only talk about climbing here, but as an economist, and a citizen, I feel the need to make some comment on this issue:<div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-missing-billions-20110613,0,4414060.story">http://www.latimes.com/news/nationworld/world/la-fg-missing-billions-20110613,0,4414060.story</a></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">Following our successful invasion of Iraq in 2003, the US govt began to transfer billions and billions in cash to the country, in an effort to start rebuilding. Amazingly, the cargo bay of a C-130 can carry 2.4 Billion USD in $100 Bills. 20 such flights were made, delivering roughly $12 Billion is USD (apparently not all the flights were full).</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">Now, eight years later, the Petagon admits that it cannot, despite years of effort, account for $6.6 Billion of those dollars.</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;">"</span></span><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; "><i>The mystery is a growing embarrassment to the Pentagon, and an irritant to Washington's relations with <a class="taxInlineTagLink" id="PLGEO100100602011310" title="Baghdad (Iraq)" href="http://www.latimes.com/topic/intl/iraq/baghdad-%28iraq%29-PLGEO100100602011310.topic" style="font-weight: normal; color: rgb(102, 102, 102); text-decoration: none; ">Baghdad</a></i>. "</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; ">"Embarrassment"? "Irritant"? To say the least!</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; ">Yes, the US Govt mislaid 66 Thousand Million dollars, big news...</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; ">BUT, it gets MUCH WORSE!</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; ">In addition to the 6.6B USD lost, there's the estimated <a href="http://www.fas.org/sgp/crs/natsec/RL33110.pdf">823B USD</a> for which we CAN account. That is the total cost of military operations so far in Iraq. (Estimate by FAS.org, including FY03-Requests for FY12)</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; ">There are many many estimates out there for the total cost of the Iraq War. Leading up to the invasion, White House adviser Lawrence Lindsey was fired for, among other things, predicted that the war might cost up to 100B USD. Administration estimates ranged from 50-60B USD.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; ">So, as any economist might do, I figured I'd construct a cost/benefit analysis for this spending:</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; "><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; ">COSTS:</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; ">823,000,000,000 USD</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: Georgia, 'Times New Roman', Times, serif; font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px; "><a href="http://icasualties.org/iraq/index.aspx">4,778 US and Coalition troops Killed</a></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" ><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 15px; line-height: 17px;"><a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Casualties_of_the_Iraq_War">Anywhere from 100,000 to 1,000,000 Iraqi Civilians killed</a></span></span></div><div><br /></div><div>BENEFITS:</div><div>Saddam Hussein is dead, and Iraq is a democracy</div><div><a href="http://www.usatoday.com/news/world/iraq/2007-09-26-insurgents_N.htm">19,000 Militants and Foreign fighters killed, as of 2007</a><br /></div><div><a href="http://wais.stanford.edu/Iraq/iraq_deathsundersaddamhussein42503.html">333,000 Iraqi Civilians NOT killed by Saddam Hussein*</a> </div><div><br /></div><div>*This is obviously an EXTREMELY rough, and almost entirely insignificant, estimate. I based it off <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Human_rights_in_Saddam_Hussein's_Iraq">Wikipedia</a>, estimating that Saddam killed ~1M of his own civilians during his 24yr rule. If he continued at that pace, he would have killed an additional 1/3M in the past 8yrs.</div><div>--------------------------------</div><div><br /></div><div>OK, obviously there's a ton more at play here. The COSTS list should be much longer:</div><div><br /></div><div>What about the opportunity costs for US citizens who could have spent an average of $2,743 per person, had that money not been taxed and spent on Iraq?</div><div><br /></div><div>The 823B USD cost estimate was actually the lower estimate I found in a few minutes of surfing the net. I don't have the time, resources, or inclination to do more research, but there were estimates of the total costs up to 3T USD. </div><div><br /></div><div>Maybe the BENEFITS should be longer too? Surely,the increased defense spending has spurred domestic industry. But so would spending that amount of money on nearly anything, or simply leaving it to American citizens to spend themselves.</div><div><br /></div><div>Furthermore, the "Benefit" of Iraqi democracy to America is questionable. If they choose to elect Islamists and ally themselves with Iran, does that not provide a training ground for anti-American terrorists?</div><div>---------------------------------------</div><div><br /></div><div>I have intentionally left out any discussion of the inherent morality of the war. In 2003, I argued that we (the US and our allies) did have the moral right to invade Iraq. This was based on the fact that Saddam was an illegitimate ruler who massacred his own people, and appeared to pose a threat to the rest of the world.</div><div><br /></div><div>There is a huge difference, though, between having a moral right to do something and having an obligation to do it. Any rational actor may morally pursue any number of actions, but should consider the costs and benefits of those actions.</div><div><br /></div><div>I would argue, with the benefit of hindsight, that while we may have had the right to intervene in Iraq, we should not have, given the massive costs, and unclear benefits, of that action.</div><div><br /></div><div>-Scott Bennett</div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-50025029500588420392011-06-09T08:31:00.001-07:002011-06-09T10:11:28.192-07:00A Sting in the Tail<div><b>-and Finally a Beached Whale-</b></div><div><br /></div>When a route is called "The Wasp", you might optimistically think that the FA party had a funny encounter with some annoying bugs. Or maybe that it's an <a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/the-wasp-canyon/105745196">obscure acronym</a>. <div><br /></div><div>But really, the most likely reason, and I'm sure the true explanation for <a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/the-wasp/105925749">the gorgeous route in RMNP</a>, is that the route sports a sting in it's tail. </div><div><br /></div><div>That is to say, the very last move of the route is "non-trivial".</div><div><br /><a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/images/59/49/107155949_medium_bb417f.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 319px; height: 480px;" src="http://www.mountainproject.com/images/59/49/107155949_medium_bb417f.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /></div><div><br /><a href="http://mountainproject.com/images/51/0/107165100_large_095551.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 480px; height: 319px;" src="http://mountainproject.com/images/51/0/107165100_large_095551.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Cody going ground-up on the Wasp (5.13-). Photos by Ben Walburn.</i></div><div style="text-align: center;"><i><br /></i></div><div style="text-align: left;">A few weeks back, my friends Zack, Cody, Ben and I headed up to Rocky Mountain National Park's "Rock of Ages" crag. ROA is a sub-alpine gem of fine grained granite, some of the best stone on the Front Range. The two-tiered crag sports a steep 200' lower wall, with classics like Day's of Heaven (5.10d). The upper tier is a 100' tall chunk of perfect orange and white granite, accented by green and black streaks. Smack in the center of the upper wall lurks the Wasp.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">After warming up on Days of Heaven, we all took turns trying the Wasp. After I pussed out and decided to toprope it, our friend Cody manned up, pulled the rope, and went for the lead. The Wasp is one of those treasured rarities, especially here in Colorado: a natural line, entirely protectable by gear, that features difficult and aesthetic face climbing. <a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/starlight/105751189">And thankfully, no one bolted it!</a></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">We all were blown away by the continuous, quality climbing, which at first seemed impossible, but slowly became imaginable. </div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">So yesterday, we assembled another crew and headed back up to the Park. Again splitter blue skies gave us piles of stoke, and the pleasant approach hike got our blood flowing. Matt, Josh, Joel, Wade, and I all humped a mountain of gear and rope up to the crag with only one goal in mind (Well, in my mind at least).</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">I worked out the moves and gear placements on top-rope, making my ascent a "headpoint". This isn't really necessary on this route, since it provides very solid gear, but for me it seemed like a reasonable strategy since this route was at my absolute limit in terms of difficultly, and since the crag was two and half hours (by car and foot) away from my house, being efficient was necessary. Still, on-sighting the route, or even just working it ground-up, is a much better style and I have huge respect for folks that have success with that strategy.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IcazJT2_GbI/TfD4R3BvM1I/AAAAAAAAC1c/EQh4Sk51Mr8/s1600/wasp.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 266px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-IcazJT2_GbI/TfD4R3BvM1I/AAAAAAAAC1c/EQh4Sk51Mr8/s400/wasp.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5616261721043710802" /></a><div style="text-align: center;">Riding the Wasp. Photo by <a href="http://wadedavid.com/">Wade David</a>.</div></div><div style="text-align: left;"><br />So, mid-day yesterday, I tied in for my first lead attempt. It went surprisingly well, and I managed to stave off the pump by climbing slowly, milking the rests, and only placing gear from stances. Three-quarters up the route, there's a great rest with a two-handed jug and two well-placed foot chips. I hung out at this stance for over ten minutes, prompting jeers from my friends below. Finally, well rested, I powered into the crux sequence, hitting the crimps and sidepulls in series, nailing the thin footholds, and moving quickly. One big move gains a good hold at the lip of the wall, and I relax for a second. The route is not over, but ends with a frustratingly blank mantle to gain the top of the crag. An hour earlier, describing the route to Joel, I had described this mantle as "non-trivial" but added "but you're not gonna fall off it..."</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Staring the mantle, I pasted a high right foot, switching my hands from pulling to pushing and began to lever myself up. My center of gravity was maybe one inch away from being safely atop the crag, and in my mind I let out a silent cry of joy: "I've done it!". Then, in an instant, my body-tension relaxed, my crappy right foot gave way, and I was airborne. Flipping upside-down midair, I sailed about forty feet down the cliff. Finally, the rope came tight on my high piece (a piton, the only fixed piece on the route), and I was hanging inverted, letting loose a crowd of caustic curses at my failure.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">After pulling up and finishing (the mantle felt easy that time!), I sullenly lowered back to the ground. My friends were quick with encouraging words: "You looked really solid through that crux!" "You sent it 99.98%", but I was bumming. The weather had started to threaten, who knows if I'd get another attempt in today, who knows when I'd wrangle up a partner to come back here. Doubt, insecurity, disappointment.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">An hour later, I've sat in my puffy jacket, watched as Joel top-roped the route, and re-assembled my rack. One more shot for the day. As I lead up the bottom portion, the moves feel familiar, but the pump is building a bit faster than last time. A powerful crux comes at half-height, and I barely scrape it out. Resting again for a long time at the three-quarter height jug, I keep shifting my feet on the small edges so as not to terminally pump my calves.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Finally, I pull into the final crux, hitting every crimp, letting the finely edged rock bite into my worn-out finger tips. Again the toss to the final hold feels desperate, and again I set up for the mantle. I start to rock over, my right foot high on the same slanting, sloping, smarmy hold. My arms are past the point of uselessness, but I press with my whole body, and miraculously get my center-of-gravity over the top of the cliff before everything gives way and I flop onto my belly, the perfect beached whale.</div><div style="text-align: left;"><br /></div><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3IfWpnVhJW0/TH4QhAzNlkI/AAAAAAAAAXc/OsTgggnGNQk/s1600/beached+whale.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 460px; height: 345px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_3IfWpnVhJW0/TH4QhAzNlkI/AAAAAAAAAXc/OsTgggnGNQk/s1600/beached+whale.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Me Sending the Wasp</i>!</div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><div style="text-align: left;">Addendum:</div><div style="text-align: left;">I remembered that in my last post, I promised to report back on "Tague Yer Time". My friend Josh and I got back out there last week, and enjoyed warm (hot) weather while completing the upper half of the route. Spectacular! Recommended!</div><div style="text-align: left;">We again swung leads, and I continued my no-falls ascent all the way to the final 5.12 pitch (of five pitches 12a or harder), before falling on a steep thin finger crack. I lowered back down to the ledge and then sent the pitch.</div><div style="text-align: left;">Unfortunately, I have no photos from the trip, since my camera battery was safely tucked away in the wall charger at my house the whole time (doh!).</div><div style="text-align: left;">The Chris's topo (see previous post) is great, and contact me if you want any more beta!</div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com19tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-89207848799491366922011-05-18T10:35:00.001-07:002011-05-18T22:40:45.031-07:00Tague yer DogJust returned from a quick two day jaunt to the Black Canyon, Colorado's biggest and raddest climbing venue. I've only been out to the REAL big ditch a few times, but every time I'm inspired to go back as soon as possible.<div><br /></div><div>On this trip, I was joined by friends Josh, Blake, and Rob. Monday morning, waking at a fantastic bivy spot just outside the park entrance, we fortified our constitutions with plenty of coffee, bacon, and eggs. A short drive to the canyon rim, and an even shorter walk, brought us to the brink.</div><div><br /></div><div>The brink of the 2000' South Chasm View wall!</div><br /><a href="http://www.nps.gov/blca/photosmultimedia/upload/blca_innercanyon01a.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 425px; height: 340px;" src="http://www.nps.gov/blca/photosmultimedia/upload/blca_innercanyon01a.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a>THE BLACK CANYON. <span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: rgb(77, 77, 77); font-family: Verdana, sans-serif; font-size: 11px; line-height: 17px; ">Credit: NPS/Lisa Lynch</span><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: 11px; line-height: 17px;"><br /></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;">While Blake and Rob rapped in to go for a one day mission on "The Flakes", Josh and I packed a haulbag and dragged our pig down into the canyon. We rapped with the haulbag down to the plush "Two Boulder Bivy", and then continued down towards the river to the start of "Tague Yer Time"</span></span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="line-height: 17px;"><br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ve9khWTNakY/TdQPiZjEfmI/AAAAAAAAC0w/3s2D2bDyE0E/s1600/blake%2Bflakes.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-ve9khWTNakY/TdQPiZjEfmI/AAAAAAAAC0w/3s2D2bDyE0E/s400/blake%2Bflakes.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5608124519631060578" /></a><i>Blake leading on P2 of "The Flakes" (shared with AstroDog) with Rob belaying.</i></span></span></div><br /><div>A relatively new addition to the canyon, TYT is touted as one of the best routes in the Black, Colorado, or even the country! The FA party spent a fair amount of time cleaning and installing bolts where needed, and the work shows!</div><br /><a href="http://mountainproject.com/images/10/70/106481070_large_e199b6.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 350px; height: 500px;" src="http://mountainproject.com/images/10/70/106481070_large_e199b6.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><i>A topo of "Tague yer Time". Credit: Chris Kalous</i><div><div><br /></div><div>Josh started up the 5.11 first pitch, casually onsighting the mixed bolt and gear lead. I took the second pitch, a stellar open corner, slightly under vertical. Though the crack itself was mostly sub-tips, both walls were highly textured, and enough pods appeared to provide adequate holds and pro. After onsighting through what I though must have been the crux, I just kept climbing, now determined not to fall. No obvious spot to stop and belay presented itself, and I continued up past many insecure mini-cruxes, becoming more and more desperate to end the pitch. </div><div><br />Finally reaching a stance, I consulted the topo and realized that I had climbed through pitches two and three, and halfway through pitch four, linking one 65m mega pitch. It was a super time-consuming lead, and I'd placed all but four pieces of the rack, which thankfully went in to build a belay.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-52_qlwcxw9w/TdQTmNF2tvI/AAAAAAAAC1I/CXSxklKwRpw/s1600/josh%2Bp4.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-52_qlwcxw9w/TdQTmNF2tvI/AAAAAAAAC1I/CXSxklKwRpw/s400/josh%2Bp4.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5608128983053285106" /></a><i>Josh, in pants reminiscent of the 11th Hussars, makes a thin corner switch on p4.</i><br /><br /><a href="http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k319/hussarman/Print6AlixBaker.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 247px; height: 350px;" src="http://i91.photobucket.com/albums/k319/hussarman/Print6AlixBaker.jpg" border="0" alt="" /></a><i>A member of the British 11th Hussars, "<a href="http://11thhussarspao.multiply.com/">The Cherry Pickers</a>"</i><br /></div><div><i><br /></i></div><div>Josh took the next lead, with some classy stemming, corner switching, arete slapping goodness. Another tough pitch onsighted, and our send-train was officially rolling. A few more easy pitches brought us to a final 5.11 corner just below our bivy ledge, and I enjoyed the lead of the steep black dihedral with the growing desire for a cold can of Dale's Pale Ale.</div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.eatcooklive.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/dales-pale-ale-4.bmp" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 180px; height: 270px;" src="http://www.eatcooklive.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/08/dales-pale-ale-4.bmp" border="0" alt="" /></a>We get to the ledge, and what do we find?! Four ice-cold cold-ones, just a-setting thar awaytin fer us! </div><div>(we had rapped it in, with a frozen two liter bottle to keep everything frosty)</div><div><br /></div><div>Oh the advantages of top-down hauling! We had rapping in not only with beer, but way more food than we could possibly consume (and still have any chance of sending the next day). Knowing that we had to carry out whatever we didn't eat, we did manage to down the smoked salmon with pesto pasta, and loaded mashed potatoes, but didn't quite get to Bengali Lentils.</div><div><br /><br /><iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/23923885?title=0&byline=0&portrait=0" width="400" height="300" frameborder="0"></iframe><p><a href="http://vimeo.com/23923885">Untitled</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3152100">Scott Bennett</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.</p><i>A short, and mostly lame, video shot at the two Boulder Bivy (it turns right side up in a second)</i><br /><br /></div><div>Our evening entertainment was rounded out by watching a party on "Stoned Oven", just across the canyon. What a unique experience, to be bivying on a bigwall, and have a mirror image big wall not even a quarter mile away! They had gotten an early start, but the famously burly route was taking it's toll and we had fun speculating on their mindset. We could hear faint belay commands shouted back and forth, and it was hard not to imagine a tinge of desperation or frustration as the sun set and many pitches of hard climbing still loomed between them and the rim. We watched as headlamps lit up, and progress slowed. We exchanged drawn out coyote howls as the moon rose above the canyon rim. We evened out our de-lux bivy site with ropes and haul bag as they struggled through "The Womb Fight". I woke briefly in the middle of the night to see their lights just a pitch below the rim... that was some quality entertainment.</div><div><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5j6AuzwgKfU/TdQSFiAP27I/AAAAAAAAC1A/rQggQWbnzgs/s1600/stoned%2Boven.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5j6AuzwgKfU/TdQSFiAP27I/AAAAAAAAC1A/rQggQWbnzgs/s400/stoned%2Boven.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5608127322219600818" /></a><i>Unknown party on Stoned Oven, late in the day.</i><br /><br />Our run of good luck ended the next morning, though. We had planned to climb the remaining six pitches of TYT, and even started up the first pitch off the bivy ledge (an intimidating 5.12 corner). But the splitter weather was gone, and snow flurries spun through the air and gave the canyon a muted, almost claustrophobic feel. It didn't take much to convince up to bail, and the thought of mandatory hard face climbing on wet rock was not appetizing.</div><div><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fHF9n9yHKzs/TdQRu8-TDAI/AAAAAAAAC04/2F7Cs2aZT18/s1600/josh%2Bbelay%2Btyt.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 301px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-fHF9n9yHKzs/TdQRu8-TDAI/AAAAAAAAC04/2F7Cs2aZT18/s400/josh%2Bbelay%2Btyt.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5608126934322187266" /></a><i>Josh looking up at the 8th pitch of TYT.</i><br /><br />We bailed back to the bivy ledge, and started up our escape route, "Astro Dog". Though still a serious route, I had <a href="http://thebigwidewest.blogspot.com/2010/10/astrodog.html">done the Dog</a> last fall, and was confident that we could finish rain or shine. Hours of enjoyable 5.10 and 5.11 cracks, and some less than enjoyable hauling, brought us to the canyon rim and back to the boring horizontal world.</div><div><br /></div><div>I will be back, though, as soon as can be arranged, to finish "Tague yer Time", and will report back here!</div></div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-37547007129962949722011-04-22T20:24:00.000-07:002011-04-23T19:28:44.606-07:00Extendo-RappingI've made a ton of interesting rappels in the past few years, but when climbing with <a href="http://www.blogger.com/blakeclimbs.blogspot.com">Blake Herrington</a>, it's always possible to learn something new. Unfortunately, that something will often be an esoteric and useless fact, such as the losing Vice Presidential candidate in 1872, how to improvise dining utensils with climbing gear, or maybe cheapest place to get week-old bagels in his home town. <div><br /></div><div>But last week in Utah, I learned something useful: <b>how to make a 40m rappel with a single 70m rope</b>. </div><div><br /></div><div>The basic idea is that, instead of rapping on both ends of your rope, as normal, you fix one end with enough rope to reach the ground, and let the other end function as a pull cord. You can then extend the pull-end with anything handy: slings, cordalette, belts, quickdraws, cams, wires, even jackets, t-shirts, pants, whatever. Since the pull end is not load-bearing, anything at your disposal can function to extend your rappelling range.</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T_M8aGasdnE/TbOHI3B8EuI/AAAAAAAAC0c/mNe4ygRbIFg/s1600/IMG_4019.JPG" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-T_M8aGasdnE/TbOHI3B8EuI/AAAAAAAAC0c/mNe4ygRbIFg/s400/IMG_4019.JPG" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598967348032443106" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>I'm sure most of you are having no trouble picturing the setup, but for those that haven't tried something like this before, here's some steps:</div><div><br /></div><div>In order to to determine the length of the rap, and even if you have to use the extendo-rap at all, have one member of the party (let's call him Scott) single-line rap first on the full length of the rope (70m). Once Scott's on the ground (or to the next station), he can go off rap, but should hold on to the end of the rope. The second, still at the higher station (let's call him Blake), should then pull up rope until it comes tight on Scott. Now Blake knows that he has exactly enough rope to reach Scott.</div><div><br /></div><div>Using the method pictured below, Blake then fixes the rap line. As you can see in the photo, this method allows Blake to rap on the longer end, and use the shorter end as a pull-cord to retrieve the rope.</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uS6SDeZAn2A/TbOIVdwz48I/AAAAAAAAC0k/aIz1kWuZNZ4/s1600/rap%2Bknot.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-uS6SDeZAn2A/TbOIVdwz48I/AAAAAAAAC0k/aIz1kWuZNZ4/s400/rap%2Bknot.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5598968664099644354" /></a><br /><br /></div><div>Blake then begins rapping down the longer line, making sure to hold on to the pull-end (you can clip it through a QD on the back of your harness). When Blake reaches the end of the pull-end, he begins to extend it with any available material (slings, pants, etc) until he reaches the ground. Once on the ground, pull the pants and you'll retrieve the rope!</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><div><b>IMPORTANT CAVEAT!</b> This is a slick maneuver, but not one that you'd want to rely on for multi-pitch rappels in adventurous settings. There is a huge potential problem: if you use the extendo-rap to reach a hanging belay, and then have a snag pulling (the knot gets caught) you could potentially find yourself in a situation where your entire rope is out of reach, and all you have is a few meters of slings (or pants!) with which to work. So, I would only recommend using the extendo-rappel when making you're last rap to the ground, or if the pull is super-clean.</div><div><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6c/BGratzBrown.png/160px-BGratzBrown.png" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 160px; height: 207px;" src="http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/6/6c/BGratzBrown.png/160px-BGratzBrown.png" border="0" alt="" /></a><span class="Apple-style-span"><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Oh Benjamin Gratz Brown, what a different place the country might be if you'd been Vice President instead of that scoundrel Henry Wilson!</i></div></span>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-46402274459484029162011-04-18T11:08:00.000-07:002011-04-18T13:33:50.864-07:00Castles in the SandSometimes you see a feature, a line, a wall, a mountain that just captures your imagination. In an instant, it just goes from being pretty scenery, to being a concrete objective. You can no longer look at it without making a plan, visualizing the moves, reaching for your chalkbag.<div><br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JDmrmX5lWII/TayPNiP_xoI/AAAAAAAACzE/s3YTSFVMwfk/s1600/cv%2Bnight.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-JDmrmX5lWII/TayPNiP_xoI/AAAAAAAACzE/s3YTSFVMwfk/s400/cv%2Bnight.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597005899609654914" /></a><br />The Castle Valley ridgeline is such a feature for me, so much so that you can see the photo on the header of this blog. A serpentine line of piled dirt and sand, the ridge is capped with five proud towers, jutting up the remains of a Chinese wall. It's an obvious and compelling objective, to traverse the length of the ridge, and to summit each tower along the way.</div><div><br /></div><div>Last fall, with my frequent partner-in-sending, Blake, I made a jaunt out to Castle Valley to attempt the "Castle Valley Enchainment". Though normally adept at logistics, we punted on the first attempt, underestimating the difficulty of walking the ridgeline, planning on walking both out and back, and picking a late fall day that was both too short, too cold (in the morning), and too hot (in the afternoon). Having one gallon of cached water taken (by well meaning but unhelpful fellow climbers) didn't help either, and the day ended with both of us totally parched, trudging back to camp in the dark, having only sent three towers.</div><div><br /></div><div>The initial failure, however, only increased my desire to return and try again. At first, I had thought it might be too easy, just a leisurely day of ridge walking and climbing, nothing challenging or memorable. But after being bouted royally, it was clear to me that this was a worthy goal.</div><div><br /></div><div>So last week, with Blake in the passenger seat, and now a bike in the trunk, I sped over the Rocky Mountains, pointed west to the glorious red desert of Utah. We pulled into the mostly full Castleton camping area, and quickly threw down bivy gear and tried to get some good rest. Early the next morning, we took our time making coffee, frying breakfast burritos, and building up the psyche. </div><div><br /><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uUa-J_PR9fQ/TayRPhayzlI/AAAAAAAACzc/ox-4jS4z-yY/s1600/cv%2Bsammies.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-uUa-J_PR9fQ/TayRPhayzlI/AAAAAAAACzc/ox-4jS4z-yY/s400/cv%2Bsammies.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597008132769500754" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>Blake maximizing the food-value of our "send-wiches" the night before the linkup</i></div><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t9bzeJ3KsF8/TayTaLYnUpI/AAAAAAAAC0E/p3_fo0z8pfE/s1600/cv%2Bpano2.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 128px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-t9bzeJ3KsF8/TayTaLYnUpI/AAAAAAAAC0E/p3_fo0z8pfE/s400/cv%2Bpano2.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597010514856596114" /></a><div style="text-align: center;"><i>A full view of the ridge. From left to right: Convent, Sister Superior, The Priest and Rectory (overlapping in this shot), and Castleton</i>.</div><br /></div><div>A brisk uphill walk brought us to the first tower of the day: the Rectory. Though Castleton would be the logical first tower, the South-east facing route "<a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/castle_valley/105717322">Fine Jade</a>" (5.11-) enticed us in the chilly morning. This route was not new to either of us, and we cruised up and down the three pitches of amazing crack climbing in about an hour. A short walk later, we were at the base of the "<a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/castle_valley/105717319">North Face of Castleto</a>n" (5.11-). Since I'd never been on it, Blake graciously offered me all the leads, and I savored the perfectly cut Wingate splitters, occasionally iced with Calcite edges. Again three pitches, this tower took maybe another hour, and we felt confident having established such a quick start. </div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l7Zg9XsMb5w/TayQAREe_iI/AAAAAAAACzM/PXxcVm5y7S4/s1600/cv%2Bcastleton%2Bnf.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-l7Zg9XsMb5w/TayQAREe_iI/AAAAAAAACzM/PXxcVm5y7S4/s400/cv%2Bcastleton%2Bnf.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597006771171294754" /></a><i><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; "><i>Me leading on the North Face of Castleton, P1. Blake Herrington photo.</i></span></div></i><br /></div><div>The Priest, also new to me, was definitely a highlight. We chose the classic route "<a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/castle_valley/105717292">Honeymoon Chimney</a>" (5.11-). Put up by the all-star team of Layton Kor, Fred Beckey, and Harvey T Carter, this unique route is more of a vertical spelunking expedition than a tower route. After a first pitch of wide laybacking, you enter the chasm in the heart of the tower, and proceed to chimney up most to the way, protected from the infinite Castle Valley exposure by massive walls of sandstone. Finally, on the last pitch you emerge for an airy crux move onto an arete, and the romp around the tower for an easy summit pitch.</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFNYHNf3gnA/TayRwPJro2I/AAAAAAAACzk/FpsV-aprNzY/s1600/cv%2Bblake%2Bchmy.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-VFNYHNf3gnA/TayRwPJro2I/AAAAAAAACzk/FpsV-aprNzY/s400/cv%2Bblake%2Bchmy.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597008694801572706" /></a><i><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; "><i>Blake, trying not to get stuck, on (in?) the first pitch of Honeymoon Chimneys</i></span></div></i></div><div><div style="text-align: center;"><br /></div><br /></div><div>After the Priest, we had the first major ridge crossing, which had drained us last fall. This time, though, the day was mostly overcast, and we were protected from the brutal desert sun. Using some interesting fixed lines fixed to big chunks of rebar, we descended onto the knife-edged ridge and ran across towards Sister Superior.</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d8Ir1iImx-g/TayQnaHJbEI/AAAAAAAACzU/n1iZWc-GGwc/s1600/cv%2Bridge.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-d8Ir1iImx-g/TayQnaHJbEI/AAAAAAAACzU/n1iZWc-GGwc/s400/cv%2Bridge.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597007443613281346" /></a><i><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; "><i>The ridgeline, looking north from Castleton</i></span></div></i><br /></div><div>Another favorite route, "<a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/castle_valley/105717373">Jah-man</a>" (5.10) was not new to either of us. This didn't stop us, though, from enjoying two amazing pitches of chimneys, handcracks, and the obligatory sandy top-out. Finally, we had four towers down, but the crux remained.</div><div><br /></div><div>The first part of the crux was simply getting to the final "tower", the Convent. I'm not sure of the true definition of tower, and the Convent might actually be a mesa. It is perhaps a quarter mile long, and caps the north end of the Castle Ridge. The narrow and eroding bridge of dirt that connects Sister Superior to the Convent proved tricky, but the real slog was traversing under the entire bulk of the mesa, side-hilling on loose gravel and ball-bearings, constantly having to out-run gravity and the forces of erosion.</div><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XGK2acZGWZI/TaySO_RCY2I/AAAAAAAACzs/gAbYPJVotUA/s1600/cv%2Blunch.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-XGK2acZGWZI/TaySO_RCY2I/AAAAAAAACzs/gAbYPJVotUA/s400/cv%2Blunch.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597009223113401186" /></a><i><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; "><i>Consuming the send-wiches</i></span></div></i><br /></div><div>The route, "<a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/castle_valley/106049629">The Value of Audacity</a>" (5.11++) would be final challenge. By far the hardest and least traveled of the routes, VoA features a massive roof on its first pitch. We had fortunately tried this last fall, so we had some idea of what we were up against. Blake led up first, re-sussing the sequence out the tiny underclings and crimps. A huge toss with the left hand gains a jug at the lip, but the feet are all but useless on the overhanging sandy wall below. Blake tries valiantly for a while, and then lowers back to the belay and we trade rope ends. </div><div>Benefiting from his beta, and my added 6" of reach, I gain the jug. Once there, though, I spend five minute trying to find the correct knee-bar position that will allow me to reach up and around into that tantalizing hand-crack. Finally as the pump-clock is about to expire, I get a perfect right leg knee bar, pivot around the lip, lock in the hand jam, and pull around into a welcome rest.</div><div>The remainder of the route is cruiser cracks, and we top out in two more pitches just as the sun nears the Western horizon. One more challenge: getting down! The previous fall, we'd had two 60m ropes, which made for an easy descent off the route to the left. This time, we opted to go light and bring just one 70m cord, and try an unknown descent to the right. After finding a more-or-less stable boulder to sling, we rapped onto a recently established (and bad-ass looking!) route "<a href="http://http//mountainproject.com/v/utah/moab_area/castle_valley/106606440">The Middle Way</a>", and used two single bolt anchors to make the ground.<br /></div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RPYjxSxM1iM/TayShWy0ndI/AAAAAAAACz0/R_-qcDmAYt4/s1600/cv%2Brope%2Bcoil.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-RPYjxSxM1iM/TayShWy0ndI/AAAAAAAACz0/R_-qcDmAYt4/s400/cv%2Brope%2Bcoil.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597009538666765778" /></a><i><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; "><i>Coiling the rope at sunset</i></span></div></i><br /></div><div>An easy romp down gravel ridges brought us to the road, and the bike that we had stashed the previous evening. A fully-loaded game of rock-paper-scissors determined that I should face the 7 mile ride back to our car. It was definitely worth it, though, because we'd sent the Castle Valley!</div><br /><br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1NGgDrd057U/TayTJODNewI/AAAAAAAACz8/Kz_J8Llcq9c/s1600/one%2Bto%2Bfive.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"></a><div><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1NGgDrd057U/TayTJODNewI/AAAAAAAACz8/Kz_J8Llcq9c/s1600/one%2Bto%2Bfive.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="text-align: left;display: block; margin-top: 0px; margin-right: auto; margin-bottom: 10px; margin-left: auto; cursor: pointer; width: 400px; height: 277px; " src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-1NGgDrd057U/TayTJODNewI/AAAAAAAACz8/Kz_J8Llcq9c/s400/one%2Bto%2Bfive.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5597010223514352386" /></a></div><i><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-style: normal; "><i>A compilation of our five summit photos</i></span></div></i>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com5tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-56874655952710437562011-04-11T00:58:00.001-07:002011-04-11T11:36:37.848-07:00My Red Canyon HomeIt's great to be back in Gringolandia! With near precision, I made the the migration from south to north just nine days after the spring equinox, ensuring myself maximum daylight in both hemispheres. <div><br /></div><div>Of course returning to Colorado means returning to my true home, Eldorado Canyon! Everyone here is stoked to be out enjoying the spring sun, and I am not lacking climbing-partners!</div><div><br /></div><div><div><div><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BfVIqQvnE2U/TaK005u5IiI/AAAAAAAACyU/pFz2luH8ar8/s1600/colin.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BfVIqQvnE2U/TaK005u5IiI/AAAAAAAACyU/pFz2luH8ar8/s400/colin.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594232508091277858" /></a>Colin making it happen on an evening free-solo of "The Bulge" 5.7<br /><div><br /></div><div><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t7MAA7pYIwo/TaK0_Xsaj4I/AAAAAAAACyc/Hz_zmv4gPb4/s1600/clayton.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-t7MAA7pYIwo/TaK0_Xsaj4I/AAAAAAAACyc/Hz_zmv4gPb4/s400/clayton.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594232687932641154" /></a>Clayton soaking in the Colorado sun, literally hours after landing at DIA and returning from his months in South America. Ruper, 5.8.<br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EY5I_IRN9aM/TaNFZMX_F8I/AAAAAAAACys/V3Aa-35OP7M/s1600/blake%2Btoit.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 299px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-EY5I_IRN9aM/TaNFZMX_F8I/AAAAAAAACys/V3Aa-35OP7M/s400/blake%2Btoit.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594391461245163458" /></a>Blake leading the 2nd pitch of "Le Toit" (5.11a), with me belaying. Photo by Forest Woodward.<br /><br /><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D91JbQEMqnk/TaNGmmQ6n9I/AAAAAAAACy0/qjEaT8Z35n0/s1600/forest.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-D91JbQEMqnk/TaNGmmQ6n9I/AAAAAAAACy0/qjEaT8Z35n0/s400/forest.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594392791044759506" /></a>Forest following the "Rosy-Toit" pitch (5.10). In addition to being <a href="http://forestwoodward.blogspot.com/">an amazing photographer</a>, Forest is quickly becoming a bad-ass trad climber. Get after it buddy!<br /><br /></div><div><br /></div><a href="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/21_SCOTT_AND_BLAKE_APR_7_0005.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1302292587687" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 1000px; height: 667px;" src="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/21_SCOTT_AND_BLAKE_APR_7_0005.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1302292587687" border="0" alt="" /></a><a href="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/"></a></div><div><br /></div><div><a href="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/">Ryan Thompson</a>, a very talented adventure sport photographer, joined us for an afternoon in the canyon and got some cool shots of Apple Strudel, a thin bolted face climb.<br /><div><br /></div><div>All of Ryan's photos got cut-off by the inept blogger, so just click on them, they're worth it!<br /><a href="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/21_SCOTT_AND_BLAKE_APR_7_0008.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1302292680777" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 1000px; height: 667px;" src="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/21_SCOTT_AND_BLAKE_APR_7_0008.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1302292680777" border="0" alt="" /></a><br /><br /><a href="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/21_SCOTT_AND_BLAKE_APR_7_0009.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1302292720794" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 1000px; height: 667px;" src="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/21_SCOTT_AND_BLAKE_APR_7_0009.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1302292720794" border="0" alt="" /></a>Blake sussing the intricate movement of Apple Strudel, 5.12a<br /><a href="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/21_SCOTT_AND_BLAKE_APR_7_0006.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1302292628224" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 1000px; height: 667px;" src="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/21_SCOTT_AND_BLAKE_APR_7_0006.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1302292628224" border="0" alt="" /></a>Sending on the Strudel, and making some really weird faces...</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jn3t5uwOfok/TaNG_VsmulI/AAAAAAAACy8/QWGjH-EFc-c/s1600/joel%2Bleading.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 300px; height: 400px;" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-jn3t5uwOfok/TaNG_VsmulI/AAAAAAAACy8/QWGjH-EFc-c/s400/joel%2Bleading.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594393216094222930" /></a>Joel on the "Rosy-Toit" pitch (5.10)<br /><br /></div><div>The biggest day so far has been a rambling ascent of Redgarden wall via some rad pitches. My friend Joel and I climbed "Scary Canary" to "Le Rosy Toit" to "Love Minus Zero" (on in eldo would a six pitch climb have three different names...). The Canary, though not really Scary, was plenty hard. That's one I need to get back on to send! Love Minus Zero, on the other hand, gave us our fill of indistinct, lichen-ous, runout, and "exciting" climbing!</div><div><br /><br /><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zsYkIXl3pcc/TaNEcRSxcQI/AAAAAAAACyk/0HwqxI0eBSE/s1600/joel.jpg" onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}"><img style="display:block; margin:0px auto 10px; text-align:center;cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 400px; height: 300px;" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-zsYkIXl3pcc/TaNEcRSxcQI/AAAAAAAACyk/0HwqxI0eBSE/s400/joel.jpg" border="0" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5594390414593454338" /></a>Post send beers on the bridge.<br /><br /></div><div>As much as I love my red canyon home, the desert is calling me! Many socked-in, weather-enforced rest days in South America were spent dreaming of perfect Utah sandstone, and I'm heading out now (literally as soon as I post this) to the wide open spaces of Castle Valley!</div><div></div></div></div></div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-15556342916773954882011-03-09T11:41:00.000-08:002011-03-09T11:41:22.898-08:00I'm not really this dumb...OK, read the below post about Cerro Pollone first, it's actually interesting.<br />
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and then, if you still have time, a short plea for help: Is there any other blogging platform that's easier to use and less buggy/schizophrenic than blogger? I'm not really computer illiterate, but after spending nearly two hours uploading photos for that last post, I spent more than another hour trying to arrange the photos and text in some sort of consistent and logical manner. To no avail. The editing window would constantly make inexplicable changes, jumping my photos around, formatting them way off to the left or right, and clipping off all the text. It took all the patience I could find to just get all the pics and text into the post. The ugly result is below.<br />
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So anyways, I hate to complain about something that's free, but it seems so counter intuitive and buggy, I'd love it if I could use a simpler, or just more functional platform. The only catch, though, is that I'd like to keep the same web address. Probably impossible...Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-59633058664179045942011-03-09T11:35:00.000-08:002011-03-09T11:35:55.677-08:00More Pollone Pics<div class="" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Here are some more photos from our climb of Cerro Pollone a few weeks back:</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><div style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">Blake on the long approach, looking like he's ready for some 1980's vision of the future</span><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gu9rGAIq4Bo/TXe6toQWzoI/AAAAAAAACxA/Zm_BqHr8KF8/s1600/night+sky+pollone+group.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="143" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-gu9rGAIq4Bo/TXe6toQWzoI/AAAAAAAACxA/Zm_BqHr8KF8/s320/night+sky+pollone+group.JPG" width="320" /></a></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;"><br />
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</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Me leading somewhere on the 2000' West Pillar of Pollone. The climbing was truly perfect on the entire face, consisting of splitter white granite, many hand cracks, tons of corners and roofs, and a few dicey face traverses and flared cracks.<br />
The most memorable pitch, though, might be one we didn't climb:<br />
high on the face, visible from the approach, loomed a steep splitter off-width crack (too wide for hands, too small to full-body chimney). Our lone #4 camalot would provide no protection in this impressive fissure, and the climbing looking burly and sustained. I had already agreed that'd I'd lead it if it was the only way, so I spent a stressed night bivied just 100' below it. The next morning, though, I was able to lead left, around the arete, to a very climbable system of hand cracks that took us all the way to the summit!</span></div><table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vbYY3xjTpd0/TXe3c5FrBQI/AAAAAAAACw0/I_EAz_CvfOs/s1600/bivy.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-vbYY3xjTpd0/TXe3c5FrBQI/AAAAAAAACw0/I_EAz_CvfOs/s400/bivy.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">Our bivy about 14 pitches up the West Pillar. The construction was completed on schedule and under budget by Blake and Scott, Alpine Contractors.</span><br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-5K8uQbQQaUM/TXe46JN60VI/AAAAAAAACw4/3ySsaIr99Sg/s400/For+lara+closeup.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zQlDyVfxICI/TXe_EWshu3I/AAAAAAAACxM/6E1PkVJ5odc/s1600/For+Larabar.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-zQlDyVfxICI/TXe_EWshu3I/AAAAAAAACxM/6E1PkVJ5odc/s400/For+Larabar.JPG" width="400" /></a></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">There will be snacks, there will!<br />
A heap of good food for our second day on the route. Huge thanks to Larabar of Denver, Colorado for hooking us up with some tasty bars!</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="300" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-amvJnctyrl4/TXfGljxxKUI/AAAAAAAACxk/CCqN8ihIAZ4/s400/IMG_2702.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">A series of photos from the long summit ridge. The entire climb was amazing, but the ridge traverse might have been the highlight. The views were of course incredible, and the climbing was, for the most part, pretty easy. From the summit of the West Pillar, we stayed roped up and led maybe 4-5 pitches across the knife edge ridge, encountering short bits of up and downclimbing on little towers, maybe up to 5.10. One more sustained vertical pitch (5.10) gained the summit proper, for which we had spectacular weather and high spirits.</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7wPHFdkD6TA/TXfEh0SiX0I/AAAAAAAACxc/pImVXnQDYBs/s1600/blake+on+ridge.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-7wPHFdkD6TA/TXfEh0SiX0I/AAAAAAAACxc/pImVXnQDYBs/s400/blake+on+ridge.JPG" width="300" /></span></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">Summit Alfajor!</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">The traverse from the Main summit to the East was a bit more difficult, physically and mentally. The lenticular cloud forming over Fitz Roy clearly indicated increasing winds, and it seemed like our multi-day window might be about to slam shut. Starting with a rap off the Main summit, we crossed the increasing crenelated ridge with a series of vertical pitches and raps. On one tower, an immense red and grey obstacle, the absolutely perfect granite that we'd been enjoying for the past two days degraded to some sort of grainy choss. I was on lead, and I tried a few different paths, but was turned back twice by poor protection and friable holds. Though the pressure of the impending weather was weighing on me, I also knew that a big lead fall and potential injury would be light-years worse than the slight delay of backing off and trying other paths. Finally, on my third attempt, I found a weakness that took decent pro, and quickly gained the choss tower's summit.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8Hzlo0b7ER4/TXfHgTlDyJI/AAAAAAAACxo/OaROY9JteVU/s1600/IMG_2713.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-8Hzlo0b7ER4/TXfHgTlDyJI/AAAAAAAACxo/OaROY9JteVU/s400/IMG_2713.JPG" width="308" /></span></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">The orange choss tower</span></td></tr>
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From there, the climbing was a bit easier, and we gained the east summit in a few more pitches. Just in time, the weather was coming in! There we found some rappel tat left by our friend Neil a month earlier (<a href="http://joelandneilsclimbingblog.blogspot.com/2011/01/rey-puesto.html">on the first ascent of the East Summit!</a>), and gladly began the long descent. Many raps, many stuck ropes, much downclimbing, and one unpleasantly cold waterfall later, we were on the Fitz Norte glacier, with nothing left but the long slog back to basecamp and then town!</span><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2Aj_SEYSXW0/TXfAJiOzx5I/AAAAAAAACxQ/1khxGwbAGWo/s1600/group+at+negras.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><img border="0" height="258" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-2Aj_SEYSXW0/TXfAJiOzx5I/AAAAAAAACxQ/1khxGwbAGWo/s400/group+at+negras.JPG" width="400" /></span></a></td></tr>
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<div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">The crew at Piedras Negras base camp after our climb. From left, the team of Jose and Greg (Chilean and French), the brothers Joel and Neil Kauffman, then me and Blake.</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">Jose, Greg, Neil and Joel had all been on the Noth Pillar of Fitz Roy the previous day, and had been stymied attempting to summit by poor conditions. They all resolved to rap the route together, and suffered a series of rope incidents that left them with just one good rope by the end of the descent (each team started with two ropes).</span></div><div style="text-align: left;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;">Joel and Neil, no strangers to big mountian suffering, rated their all-night, wet, freezing, cluster-fucked rappel session as a 6.5 on a 1-10 scale of epicness (10 being your own death).</span></div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif; font-size: small;"> <br />
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</tbody></table><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Back in town, our friend and landlord Daniel threw us a victory Asado (roast). Que Rico! </span></div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com4tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-46243385754076012122011-03-08T07:55:00.000-08:002011-03-08T07:55:40.275-08:00Paine!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">-and fast internet-</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The allure of Patagonia summer has enticed another gringo to change his travel plans, pare down his pack, and "go gaucho". The Northern Hemisphere will always be there.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm now stationed in the old Spanish port of Puerto Natales, Chile. Located on a 100+ winding saltwater inlet, Natales is hanging out at the end of the world. Or, as some maps here show, perched aloof at it's apex.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">I'm hanging out here with fellow gringo Clayton, a friend from Boulder who's been living and working here for the season. He has a wonderful network of Chilean friends here in town, and they've been more than enthusiastic to help me out as well. After all: "Los amigos de mis amigos son mis amigos"</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So I've been hooked up with a free place to stay and a ready made set of adventurous friends with whom to share this amazing place. And thankfully we aren't that far from civilization, the internet is fast!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">So, without further blather, photos from possibly my new favorite place on earth: the Paine!</div><br />
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</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jgUhxDtjbxQ/TXZOZ2Tn4YI/AAAAAAAACws/ZX0SThJSujs/s1600/torres+with+stars.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-jgUhxDtjbxQ/TXZOZ2Tn4YI/AAAAAAAACws/ZX0SThJSujs/s320/torres+with+stars.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
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The Torres (towers) of Torres del Paine National Park. The east faces catch brilliant morning light, so here's a pre-dawn shot of towers and stars.<br />
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The sunrise was obscured by clouds, so I was almost tempted to hike down. But lo, the clouds do part!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1n6SsGaQrcg/TXZN_CDiIZI/AAAAAAAACwk/kx6oh9hUG-Y/s1600/torres+sunrise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-1n6SsGaQrcg/TXZN_CDiIZI/AAAAAAAACwk/kx6oh9hUG-Y/s320/torres+sunrise.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wgMRpA4ZgH8/TXZOLtNeldI/AAAAAAAACwo/LlKWYm6mTAg/s1600/torres+sunrise+2.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-wgMRpA4ZgH8/TXZOLtNeldI/AAAAAAAACwo/LlKWYm6mTAg/s320/torres+sunrise+2.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>For over an hour, the clouds, propelled by the mythical patagonian viento (wind), opened and closed little serpentine windows of light across the faces of the spires. I literally took over 200 shots, as the light kept seeming to get better. These are two of my favorites.<br />
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Of course the climbing potential here is enormous, but I was glad to just be hiking. Packs are way lighter without all that climbing crap! (more room for whiskey!)<br />
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One of the unique aspects of the Paine is the forbidding, glaciar choked, vertical granite valleys are interspersed among lower elevation forests, meadows, beaches, and blue greeen lakes.<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-onXl_MtncZg/TXZMndA30ZI/AAAAAAAACwQ/nK0l2Dy2mtY/s1600/group+cathedral.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-onXl_MtncZg/TXZMndA30ZI/AAAAAAAACwQ/nK0l2Dy2mtY/s320/group+cathedral.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
The Valle Francais, in the heart of the park, is maybe the most isolated and stunning spots I was able to visit. Ringed by ridiculous amounts of pristine white granite (with very, very little climbing activity so far...) this place inspires me to build a base camp and live here for two months. If only they had more than a few days of good weather per year.<br />
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The best part of travelling, or course, is the amazing people that you meet. Jay and Susie, both native Michiganders on a epic round the world ramble, were in Natales and so we all met up for this five day backpacking trip. Suerte Amigos!<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f-n9y0V7tyQ/TXZKsxOX0JI/AAAAAAAACwE/wiTZJgjA38U/s1600/dead+trees.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-f-n9y0V7tyQ/TXZKsxOX0JI/AAAAAAAACwE/wiTZJgjA38U/s320/dead+trees.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-buTE4kDH0lw/TXZKQtEhs2I/AAAAAAAACwA/PgYyPlujasw/s1600/cuernos+sunset+stitch.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="92" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-buTE4kDH0lw/TXZKQtEhs2I/AAAAAAAACwA/PgYyPlujasw/s320/cuernos+sunset+stitch.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_bP_Z6IbdQ0/TXZJm-MUx2I/AAAAAAAACv8/HrCm-l-ubWk/s1600/Cathedral+Sunrise.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-_bP_Z6IbdQ0/TXZJm-MUx2I/AAAAAAAACv8/HrCm-l-ubWk/s320/Cathedral+Sunrise.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F2-6PkWnqcs/TXZK_YOD7hI/AAAAAAAACwI/QUFq6JpbP58/s1600/flower+with+cuerno.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-F2-6PkWnqcs/TXZK_YOD7hI/AAAAAAAACwI/QUFq6JpbP58/s320/flower+with+cuerno.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lQdmzZmRamk/TXZNfgGA9PI/AAAAAAAACwc/-mSX1QnhEoA/s1600/red+flower.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-lQdmzZmRamk/TXZNfgGA9PI/AAAAAAAACwc/-mSX1QnhEoA/s320/red+flower.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--ZtswqBQ00w/TXZNKQhFvaI/AAAAAAAACwY/bseiZpSZQCk/s1600/pass+ice+field.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/--ZtswqBQ00w/TXZNKQhFvaI/AAAAAAAACwY/bseiZpSZQCk/s320/pass+ice+field.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lGrnXOTRyik/TXZNv-9qsoI/AAAAAAAACwg/lyqUJegwkIA/s1600/self+paine+grande.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-lGrnXOTRyik/TXZNv-9qsoI/AAAAAAAACwg/lyqUJegwkIA/s320/self+paine+grande.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4tpC0eoo9ig/TXZMReaiU_I/AAAAAAAACwM/S5eYk1Mb8KI/s1600/glacier+grey.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-4tpC0eoo9ig/TXZMReaiU_I/AAAAAAAACwM/S5eYk1Mb8KI/s320/glacier+grey.jpg" width="320" /></a></div><br />
On our last day, we wandered up the shore of the sculpted and enticing Lago Grey. Enticing, that is, until you round a corner and see the massive Glacier Grey, cascading directly into the lake. So no swimming here.<br />
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So yes, as soon as you close this page, go start searching for cheap airline fare. Start daydreaming, packing your bags, flipping through your old spanish textbooks. Start planning. Next winter in the North isn't that far away, exactly as far as next summer here.<br />
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-ScottScott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-54333673981762986972011-02-25T09:19:00.000-08:002011-02-25T09:19:05.142-08:00Route Photo<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aVoijHSZN9M/TWfkWvd5LxI/AAAAAAAACv4/3DM1KmSjp7c/s1600/face+w+text.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-aVoijHSZN9M/TWfkWvd5LxI/AAAAAAAACv4/3DM1KmSjp7c/s1600/face+w+text.jpg" /></a></div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-25913292764823948862011-02-24T12:13:00.000-08:002011-02-24T12:13:12.345-08:00Success!<div>Full trip report to come, but for now just a quick note:</div><div><br />
</div><div>Blake and I have returned to El Chalten from a six day mission out to the Marconi Glacier, up the West Pillar of Cerro Pollone, over the long summit ridge tagging both the West and East summits of Pollone, down the East face to the Fitz Norte glacier, back over Paso Cuadrado to the familiar basecamp of Piedras Negras.</div><div><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sEbuEHU8orE/TWa6kb1uE_I/AAAAAAAACv0/eB2CDt3O1JQ/s1600/pollone+overview.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="308" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-sEbuEHU8orE/TWa6kb1uE_I/AAAAAAAACv0/eB2CDt3O1JQ/s400/pollone+overview.jpg" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Pollone is the double summit in the center left of the photo.</td></tr>
</tbody></table><div>In the process, we made the second ascent, and first free ascent, of the West Pillar. We mostly stuck to the route "A Fine Piece", which was put up by Jim Donini and Greg Crouch in the late 90s, but we might have been on new terrain for the first 4-5 pitches. Though each summit (West Pillar, Main summit, East summit) had been reached individually, we made the first integral traverse of the ridge.</div><div><br />
</div><div>All of the climbing went free, onsight, up to 5.11+.</div><div><br />
</div><div>More soon,</div><div><br />
</div><div>Paz y Cumbre!</div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-72123713643306590152011-02-14T12:37:00.000-08:002011-02-14T12:44:58.468-08:00Pura Vida!<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">"Pura Vida!" My friend Forest taught me this saying, "Pure Life!", on one of our first days climbing here in Patagonia. There has yet to be a day that hasn't brought this ubiquitous expression to mind!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">We're here in El Chalten at the moment. Our trip started, though, further north amongst the unreal granite spires of the Frey. Forest has put up a series of excellent posts about our time there, and since he's a much (much much) better photographer than me, here's a link to his post:</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><a href="http://forestwoodward.blogspot.com/2011/02/patagonia-dia-i.html">http://forestwoodward.blogspot.com/2011/02/patagonia-dia-i.html</a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">make sure to click all the days!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After a week of perfect weather and even better climbing, we endured a 40+ hour bus ride south to Chalten, the gateway to the BIG MOUNTAINS.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">Though notorious for it's unstable weather, Chalten has graced us with 5 days of sunny and climbable weather. Not realizing the full extent of our good fortune, we planned for shorter climbs, and thus completed two "shorter" routes (both ~2000'!), each in single day pushes.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The first, which we called "Las Vent'uras", climbs entirely new terrain on the steep West face of Guillamet. Established in one 21 hour push from camp, we were soooo close to an onsight free ascent, but I fell on lead on the last hard pitch (a cold and wet pitch of 5.11 overhanging finger crack). The highlight lead for me came earlier, climbing a massive chimeny/OW system about 1000' off the deck. Thrutching way above my last cam (a worthlessly tipped out #5 Camalot), I inched slowly up to an OW roof, not knowing how I would climb it without any gear. Upon reaching it, though, I groped upwards and found a perfect finger crack, hidden just over the lip!</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After a few days of rest and resupply in town, we rallied back up to our base camp at Peidras Negras. Our objective for the day would be "Cosas Patigonicas", a route established siege style by a team of Italians in the late 80s. It was unrepeated, and un-freed.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">After one false start up the wrong corner system, we found the line and enjoyed a full day of difficult, sometimes wet, always steep corner climbing. We had to redpoint the wet crux 2nd pitch, but then onsighted the rest the route. </div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;">The highlight lead on Cosas also involved a wide crack, but this time Blake was on lead. Above our hanging belay loomed a massive overhang, split only by a "Harding-Slot" style OW/chimney. To the right of the crack, we coudl see that the Italians had drilled an aid bolt ladder around the obstacle, not wanting any part of this beast. Blake led up into a cold dripping shower, stemming wildly and struggling up into the maw. Shouting every encouragement I could think of, I dreaded the possibility of having to redpoint this pitch. Blake sent though, and our day was capped by a fun ramble to the summit of Mermoz right as the sun set. An all night rappel through unrelenting winds, with many stuck ropes, finally saw us back to camp safely as the sun rose.</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"><br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OVtjWG65Kso/TVmIiwDSNJI/AAAAAAAACvk/NFNmmZjnbIk/s1600/bari.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-OVtjWG65Kso/TVmIiwDSNJI/AAAAAAAACvk/NFNmmZjnbIk/s400/bari.JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Blake and Forest chilling in Bariloche, before out week in the Frey</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r0XoF1kOhN4/TVmJN5NZFmI/AAAAAAAACvo/AC15NebOCGQ/s1600/sport+climbin.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; display: inline !important; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-r0XoF1kOhN4/TVmJN5NZFmI/AAAAAAAACvo/AC15NebOCGQ/s400/sport+climbin.JPG" width="307" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Hayden going for a Rodeo clip during a session at the anti-mountains (steep sport climbing!)</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jkbTkTC93Ps/TVmHJZdREfI/AAAAAAAACvc/eQfKBVObM5Y/s1600/road.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jkbTkTC93Ps/TVmHJZdREfI/AAAAAAAACvc/eQfKBVObM5Y/s400/road.JPG" width="400" /></a></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">The sport climbing crew walking back from the crag</span></div><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: left;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-bottom: 0.5em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; padding-bottom: 6px; padding-left: 6px; padding-right: 6px; padding-top: 6px; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eLYpxbz2-YY/TVmFtJWQzcI/AAAAAAAACvM/Dd91_VngB04/s1600/Blake+on+ridge.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-eLYpxbz2-YY/TVmFtJWQzcI/AAAAAAAACvM/Dd91_VngB04/s400/Blake+on+ridge.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="400" /></a></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Blake on a ridge approach to Guillamet, in the REAL MOUNTAINS</span></div></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ipvQypyf--8/TVmMlmbGXUI/AAAAAAAACvw/7NBn_yKagXI/s1600/sunrise.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-ipvQypyf--8/TVmMlmbGXUI/AAAAAAAACvw/7NBn_yKagXI/s400/sunrise.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Sunrise in the mountains</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oe7QuGFCgjw/TVmGJM60j5I/AAAAAAAACvQ/8XyVIgLyGNA/s1600/blake+sun+flare.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Oe7QuGFCgjw/TVmGJM60j5I/AAAAAAAACvQ/8XyVIgLyGNA/s400/blake+sun+flare.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Blake leading a perfect hand crack on Guillamet</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7onAp7D1-Y/TVmGWktL9GI/AAAAAAAACvU/r-s6777VQfU/s1600/blake+toothpaste.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-D7onAp7D1-Y/TVmGWktL9GI/AAAAAAAACvU/r-s6777VQfU/s400/blake+toothpaste.JPG" width="308" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Blake doing some alpine improvisation. Toothpaste tube=Spoon.</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GNA2_b0uC9s/TVmFRm4Ox4I/AAAAAAAACvI/EdR-2Cg8yEk/s1600/blake+aguja+pollone.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-GNA2_b0uC9s/TVmFRm4Ox4I/AAAAAAAACvI/EdR-2Cg8yEk/s400/blake+aguja+pollone.JPG" width="300" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Scoping Mermoz</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-meJoxxvr33I/TVmHk-KVJJI/AAAAAAAACvg/gePneJMPLTc/s1600/thin+corner.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-meJoxxvr33I/TVmHk-KVJJI/AAAAAAAACvg/gePneJMPLTc/s320/thin+corner.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="320" /></a></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">This beautiful corner was on our first, and incorrect, attempt at Cosas Patagonicas. We weren't equipped from this corner's unrelenting thin-ness, so we bailed from just a bit higher. We think this has never been climbed...</span></div></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q7A8ZGl2nco/TVmGv7yrpfI/AAAAAAAACvY/ijpsSNDyTCs/s1600/end+of+cosas.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-Q7A8ZGl2nco/TVmGv7yrpfI/AAAAAAAACvY/ijpsSNDyTCs/s400/end+of+cosas.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Making a tricky corner switch on Mermoz</span></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><a href="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gcTYpD2DnT8/TVmL5mxG20I/AAAAAAAACvs/0kxOvENrE6U/s1600/me+on+thin+corner.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-gcTYpD2DnT8/TVmL5mxG20I/AAAAAAAACvs/0kxOvENrE6U/s400/me+on+thin+corner.JPG" style="cursor: move;" width="298" /></a></div></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="padding-top: 4px; text-align: center;"><div style="margin-bottom: 0px; margin-left: 0px; margin-right: 0px; margin-top: 0px;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">Me leading on Mermoz</span></div></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-56B-VAXGZaQ/TVmE9YrpVAI/AAAAAAAACvE/dZwt_s1W1vw/s1600/alfahore.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-56B-VAXGZaQ/TVmE9YrpVAI/AAAAAAAACvE/dZwt_s1W1vw/s400/alfahore.JPG" width="298" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">An Alfahore, a delicious post mountain treat!</span></td></tr>
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Also, check out Blake's page for more pics:<br />
www.blakeclimbs.blogspot.com</div><div style="text-align: left;"></div></div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com34tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-71851942215634024122011-01-24T05:04:00.000-08:002011-01-24T05:04:15.346-08:00Here in the ArgentineJust a quick post, no pictures yet (at an internet cafe with slow access).<br />
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Anyways, my friends Blake, Forest, and I have arrived in Argentina after two days of uneventful travelling. We flew out of Denver on Saturday morning, enjoyed a brief layover in steamy Miami, and then a luxurious overnight flight to Buenos Aires. That flight, on Argentinian carrier LAN, was definitely a highlight: it was only three quarters full, so we each had an etire row to ourselves, and they served hot meals and free wine!<br />
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We had an entire day in BA, but unfortunately had to make our way across town from the international airport to the domestic one with all of our heavy bags. Once at the domestic airport, we were too early to check our bags, so were pretty much stuck there. We did take turns watching the bags, though, and had a chance to walk out and explore the town. Being a gorgeous Sunday afternoon, tons of locals were out enjoying the day. They were fishing into the ocean, playing soccer in parks, selling <em>choripan</em>, and generally being social.<br />
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Im really impressed with Argentina so far; its clean and temperate, theres tons of trees, and the population is active and friendly. I cant seem to find the apostrophe button on their keyboards, though...<br />
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Yesterday evening, a short flight took us southwest to Bariloche, in Northern Patagonia. We were picked up by a friend, who also provided a place to store most of our luggage, and we finally were free to roam with just our backpacks. So afternoon a fun evening exploring town, we camped out on the shore of the huge lake, and now were here in town the following morning, about to go buy groceries and hike up into <a href="http://www.pataclimb.com/climbingareas/freycatedral.html">the Frey</a>!<br />
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Hasta Luego!Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-91429863678176903412011-01-21T09:33:00.000-08:002011-01-21T09:33:44.126-08:00Leaving some loose ends...I was lucky enough this week to enjoy some gorgeous sunny weather (typical Colorado January) with some awesome and motivated friends (typical Colorado folks).<br />
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I was not lucky enough to tie off two loose ends: <a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/eldorado_canyon_sp/105752338">the Evictor</a>, and <a href="http://mountainproject.com/v/colorado/boulder/boulder_canyon/105750214">the Vasodilator</a>.<br />
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Both are killer stretches of rock climbing, both are very difficult, and both kicked my butt this week. But we got some cool pictures:<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/BENNETT_JAN_10.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1295617555930" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="265" src="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/BENNETT_JAN_10.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1295617555930" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/BENNETT_JAN_12.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1295617769221" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/BENNETT_JAN_12.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1295617769221" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/BENNETT_JAN_16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1295617822146" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="266" src="http://www.ryandaylandscapes.com/storage/BENNETT_JAN_16.jpg?__SQUARESPACE_CACHEVERSION=1295617822146" width="400" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>Me on the Evictor (12d, <a href="http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2010/05/meaningless-r.html">not R!</a>)</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="border-collapse: collapse; font-family: arial, sans-serif; font-size: 13px;"><i>Images © Ryan Day Thompson, 2011 | <a href="http://ryandaythompson.com/" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank">ryandaythompson.com</a> | <a href="http://ryandaylandscapes.com/" style="color: #0000cc;" target="_blank">ryandaylandscapes.com</a></i></span></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TSsUXw6YiJc/TTnCkm7QmuI/AAAAAAAACu0/5uwqtN44PPA/s1600/scott+0090.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_TSsUXw6YiJc/TTnCkm7QmuI/AAAAAAAACu0/5uwqtN44PPA/s400/scott+0090.JPG" width="265" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><br />
</div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TSsUXw6YiJc/TTnCxDKVuGI/AAAAAAAACu4/CCCzv8xXvng/s1600/scott+0092.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TSsUXw6YiJc/TTnCxDKVuGI/AAAAAAAACu4/CCCzv8xXvng/s400/scott+0092.JPG" width="265" /></a></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><b>Me on Vasodilator (13a)</b></div><div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><i>Photos by <a href="http://howthewestwasclimbed.blogspot.com/">Rob Kepley</a></i></div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-63671386353706717192011-01-12T22:35:00.000-08:002011-01-12T22:35:40.301-08:00como se dice "STOKED"!<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">-or-</span><br />
<div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="color: #ffd966; font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">Granite crack climbing in 14 easy steps</span></div><div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">2011 is here, and I'm ready for some adventure. In case you're wondering what my plans are for the new year, check <a href="http://thebigwidewest.blogspot.com/2010/11/southbound.html">here</a>.</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">So as training for the upcoming <i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="white-space: nowrap;">excursión</span> a Patagonia, </i>mi amigo Blake and I headed down to Colorado's own outdoor granite crack gym, the South Platte. Attempting to maximize daylight and mileage, we worked our way down the Cathedral Spires ridge, hitting up some of the most classic pitches in the Platte. Here's how it went down:</span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"><br />
</span></div><div><iframe frameborder="0" height="300" src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/18734648" width="400"></iframe><br />
<a href="http://vimeo.com/18734648">Cathedral Spires Day</a> from <a href="http://vimeo.com/user3152100">Scott Bennett</a> on <a href="http://vimeo.com/">Vimeo</a>.<br />
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<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;"> </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">------------------------------ </span></div><div><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-family: 'Trebuchet MS', sans-serif;">the sharp-eyed with of course note that, in the "Mississippi Half Step" segment, we changed t-shirts for the far-off photos. Actually, the photos are from a few months back when our friend <a href="http://blog.garrettgrove.com/2010/11/climbing-in-south-platte-co-photo-essay/">Garrett Grove</a> paid a visit and joined us for a <i>Tour de Platte. </i>Thanks Garrett!</span></div></div>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-80676151992955254332010-12-07T22:38:00.000-08:002010-12-08T08:07:12.898-08:00Mirror Neurons and the Science of BetaI'm not a scientist. In no way do I have the patience to deal with control tests, double-blind studies, bunsen burners, or anything resembling the scientific method. I don't have the discipline to keep an open mind to all possibilities, only letting the real world evidence guide my hypotheses. And I definitely don't want to work with (real) monkeys.<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.macaque.org/images/science-cover.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="320" src="http://www.macaque.org/images/science-cover.gif" width="237" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>Monkeys have fleas</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>I am, however, an armchair scientist. I love to read about studies in which <i>other</i> people have invested absurd amounts of time. Reading their hard won conclusions (or better, a synopsis written by a non-scientist) from the comfort of my breakfast table, I can easily think to myself: "yeah, that makes sense to me".<br />
<br />
<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/science.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="248" src="http://imgs.xkcd.com/comics/science.jpg" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://xkcd.com/54/"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;"><i>http://xkcd.com/54/</i></span></a></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Another thing I'm good at: relating everything back to climbing.<br />
<a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2006/01/10/science/10mirr.html">Here's a link to a NYT article about a study done on monkeys in Italy.</a><br />
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In the study, the researchers looked at the brain activity of monkeys when the monkeys performed simple actions, such as reaching for a banana. When the monkeys performed the action, a certain set of neurons in their pre-frontal cortex (which controls motor activity) would light up. In an unexpected twist, the researchers found that the same set of neurons also lit up when the monkeys watched someone else, even a human, perform the same action.<br />
<br />
They named these neurons "Mirror Neurons", and have spent many more years researching them in both monkeys and humans. The first thing that came to my mind, though, was the image of a climber miming the beta for a route.<br />
<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_EvZVyzqXoh4/TMjtEsr_KbI/AAAAAAAAB18/TN1KKw5j2lw/s1600/IMG_8298.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="256" src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/_EvZVyzqXoh4/TMjtEsr_KbI/AAAAAAAAB18/TN1KKw5j2lw/s400/IMG_8298.jpg" width="400" /></a></div><br />
Simply watching someone else act out the crux moves of some difficult route actually activates the parts of the brain that you will use in preform the moves yourself! Wow, maybe I don't even need to climb anymore, I can just sit at the base, watch climbers with <i>real</i> talent, and vicariously send. I might even get vicariously pumped! This also explains why I reach for my chalk bag while sitting on the couch watch climbing movies...<br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"></div><table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.mountainproject.com/images/2/59/106870259_large_4aabac.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="400" src="http://www.mountainproject.com/images/2/59/106870259_large_4aabac.jpg" width="281" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;">I can almost </span><i style="font-size: medium;">feel</i><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"> the holds...</span><br />
<span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: xx-small;">Climber: Brad Gobright Photo: Eric Draper</span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7866991136297575796.post-81062215192382587812010-12-05T09:40:00.000-08:002010-12-05T09:40:57.451-08:00Naked Edge Speed RecordA few days ago my friend Blake and I lowered the speed record on the Naked Edge, one of the coolest routes in Eldo Canyon. The record is for a roped team of two, roundtrip from the bridge that marks the start of the approach trail.<br />
Our roundtrip, or bridge-to-bridge, time was 1h 13m. Here's a short post by Blake recounting the ascent:<br />
<a href="http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2010/12/on-edge.html">http://blakeclimbs.blogspot.com/2010/12/on-edge.html</a><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TSsUXw6YiJc/TPvOOofAigI/AAAAAAAACqA/rpgobS8NYpk/s1600/P1010886.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="300" src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_TSsUXw6YiJc/TPvOOofAigI/AAAAAAAACqA/rpgobS8NYpk/s400/P1010886.JPG" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span class="Apple-style-span" style="font-size: small;"><i>The Edge seen from across the canyon. The route follows the prominent arete on the right side of the wall.</i></span></td></tr>
</tbody></table>Scott Bennetthttp://www.blogger.com/profile/11251768603525667224noreply@blogger.com1