Saturday, February 6, 2010
Kickin Chicken
Yesterday I joined my friends Josh and Rob, and headed to Eldo on yet another cold morning. Though we only spent a few hours climbing before we all had to head to work, Rob succeeded in getting some pretty cool shots. Josh and I did not succeed on our route Kickin Chicken, but a good time was had by all. We'll be back soon. Here's Rob's post about the day, with plenty more pictures, including some of me catching air off the crux.
Tuesday, February 2, 2010
This Winter so far
When success is in doubt, one simply needs to redefine success. For success as a rock climber on the Front Range in January, you need to redefine "climbable weather":
Being new to Colorado, everyone seems to assume that I'm here for the winter sports. This great state has plenty to offer the snow enthusiast, and I'm sure that at some point I'll have the time and money to explore the exciting world of sliding down mountains. For the time being, however, I'm content with climbing up them.
January is over, 1/12th of the year. As I said in my last post, one of my many climbing related goals for the year is to climb outside at least 200 of the 365 days in 2010. Progress? So far, I've been able to make it outside for 16 days of vertical endeavors; I'm batting just over .500! I've been staying very local, with all but three of those days coming in Eldorado Canyon, my backyard sandstone paradise. One daytrip down to Sunshine Wall in the South Platte, as well as a two-day trip to Shelf Road reminded me that other types of rock (granite and limestone, respectively) are also worthwhile. When the weather is questionable, though, Eldo is always a good call.
January by the numbers:
Days Climbed: 16
Pitches Climbed: 72
Pitches/Day Avg: 4.5
Easiest Send: 5.6 (Wind Ridge)
Hardest Send: 5.12d (Superfly)
Different Climbing partners: 8
While most of these days, we've been content to repeat classic routes and just savor being outside, there have been a few attempts at hard climbing. Most notably, for me, was Superfly. At 5.12d, and entirely gear-protected, this is definitely one of the hardest single pitches that I've done successfully. It really represented a breakthrough for me mentally, realizing that super-hard stuff can feel doable with the right attitude and beta. Located in the Kloof Alcove, a small cave-like wall that is home to some of Eldorado's hardest pitches, Superfly was first done in the eighties and was considered cutting-edge. Here's what my 2000 Eldo Guidebook says:
Superfly 12d S (serious). First Ascent: Skip Guerin, with Chip Ruckgaber and Christian Griffith belaying, 1983.
Established ground up over two or three days, as a pink-point (gear left in, rope pulled). Still waiting for a second lead. Christian reports being "really scared" belaying.
I quote this to show how times have changed in the last ten years, and bold, hard traditional climbing has made a comeback. This fantastic route apparently stood unrepeated for 17 years, but in the last ten years since the book was published, it has probably seen a couple dozen (or more) ascents. What was once considered dangerous and inadvisable is today a popular project, even considered "safe".
My own experience with the route featured a similar change in viewpoints.
When I first checked out Superfly, it was 3-4 months ago, on solo top-rope. I often like to check out harder routes in the way, that way if it's too hard for me, I'm not wasting anyone else's time. After the somewhat involved process of hiking out, scrambling around to the top of the cliff, trying to guess where to drop my rope, and finally get everything set-up, I was anxious to try the route. I quickly identified the standout crux move, and after much effort, decided that it was too hard for me. I guess that's the disadvantage of trying new routes solo; there's no one to encourage you or get creative with different beta.
So Superfly went to the back of my mind, under the large list of routes that would be cool to check out once I get stronger. January 1st of the new year, I joined locals Rob and Josh on a cold morning in Eldo. Josh had been working Superfly for quite a while, and was very excited to give it more effort. Turns out he didn't need much more, though, since he sent it readily on the first try of the day (with no warm-up!). It was then Rob's turn, and he put in a valiant lead, but fell once at the crux. Knowing that I "couldn't" do the crux, I figured I'd just head up it on top-rope and have some fun on the easier parts of the route. I got to the crux easily, and then predictably began to flail. Josh, watching from below, quickly saw what I was doing wrong, and gave me some tips. At first Josh's advice felt very improbable, but after a few tries, everything clicked. I had done the dreaded crux reach, and the route suddenly became doable in my mind!
Two weeks later, again it's a cold morning in Eldo. I'm out with Zack, the most reliable of all climbing partners. After a couple of route to warm-up at the very sunny "Roof" wall, we head to Kloof Alcove. The sun has just come around to Superfly, and the route is starting to get warm. A few days earlier, I had come out solo, and again top-roped the route, this time with success in mind. I had scouted the gear and refined the moves, and I felt ready. First attempt of the day, I made it through the crux, and then quickly fell. Disappointed, now with some doubt creeping in, I finished the route and lowered back to the ground.
After a few minutes of sitting around and waffling, I tie back in and go for the lead a second time. Again, the crux reach works, which is amazing. This move feels so improbable, but now that I know how to do it, it works almost every time. I fight through the next few moves, which had spat me off last time, and gain a very tenuous stance. Now, the route shift from very difficult, to slightly less difficult, very strenuous, and a bit scary. You can get a few pieces of gear between here and the top, but it's all of questionable quality and hard to place. I get to the very last move of the route, literally holding on to a huge jug, and the forearm pump threatens to force me off. Zack's screams of encouragement from below give me a mental boost, and I flop onto the ledge atop the route.
Zack crushing the first pitch of Rincon (5.9+) in gloves! Leather gloves have helped up to get out even on questionable weather days, and surprisingly are not too much of hindrance to thin climbing.
Being new to Colorado, everyone seems to assume that I'm here for the winter sports. This great state has plenty to offer the snow enthusiast, and I'm sure that at some point I'll have the time and money to explore the exciting world of sliding down mountains. For the time being, however, I'm content with climbing up them.
Me on Apple Strudel (12a). Photo by Josh Janes.
January is over, 1/12th of the year. As I said in my last post, one of my many climbing related goals for the year is to climb outside at least 200 of the 365 days in 2010. Progress? So far, I've been able to make it outside for 16 days of vertical endeavors; I'm batting just over .500! I've been staying very local, with all but three of those days coming in Eldorado Canyon, my backyard sandstone paradise. One daytrip down to Sunshine Wall in the South Platte, as well as a two-day trip to Shelf Road reminded me that other types of rock (granite and limestone, respectively) are also worthwhile. When the weather is questionable, though, Eldo is always a good call.
The key to a successful day!
January by the numbers:
Days Climbed: 16
Pitches Climbed: 72
Pitches/Day Avg: 4.5
Easiest Send: 5.6 (Wind Ridge)
Hardest Send: 5.12d (Superfly)
Different Climbing partners: 8
Josh on Apple Strudel on one of the warmest days so far in 2010.
While most of these days, we've been content to repeat classic routes and just savor being outside, there have been a few attempts at hard climbing. Most notably, for me, was Superfly. At 5.12d, and entirely gear-protected, this is definitely one of the hardest single pitches that I've done successfully. It really represented a breakthrough for me mentally, realizing that super-hard stuff can feel doable with the right attitude and beta. Located in the Kloof Alcove, a small cave-like wall that is home to some of Eldorado's hardest pitches, Superfly was first done in the eighties and was considered cutting-edge. Here's what my 2000 Eldo Guidebook says:
Superfly 12d S (serious). First Ascent: Skip Guerin, with Chip Ruckgaber and Christian Griffith belaying, 1983.
Established ground up over two or three days, as a pink-point (gear left in, rope pulled). Still waiting for a second lead. Christian reports being "really scared" belaying.
Josh on Superfly
I quote this to show how times have changed in the last ten years, and bold, hard traditional climbing has made a comeback. This fantastic route apparently stood unrepeated for 17 years, but in the last ten years since the book was published, it has probably seen a couple dozen (or more) ascents. What was once considered dangerous and inadvisable is today a popular project, even considered "safe".
My own experience with the route featured a similar change in viewpoints.
When I first checked out Superfly, it was 3-4 months ago, on solo top-rope. I often like to check out harder routes in the way, that way if it's too hard for me, I'm not wasting anyone else's time. After the somewhat involved process of hiking out, scrambling around to the top of the cliff, trying to guess where to drop my rope, and finally get everything set-up, I was anxious to try the route. I quickly identified the standout crux move, and after much effort, decided that it was too hard for me. I guess that's the disadvantage of trying new routes solo; there's no one to encourage you or get creative with different beta.
So Superfly went to the back of my mind, under the large list of routes that would be cool to check out once I get stronger. January 1st of the new year, I joined locals Rob and Josh on a cold morning in Eldo. Josh had been working Superfly for quite a while, and was very excited to give it more effort. Turns out he didn't need much more, though, since he sent it readily on the first try of the day (with no warm-up!). It was then Rob's turn, and he put in a valiant lead, but fell once at the crux. Knowing that I "couldn't" do the crux, I figured I'd just head up it on top-rope and have some fun on the easier parts of the route. I got to the crux easily, and then predictably began to flail. Josh, watching from below, quickly saw what I was doing wrong, and gave me some tips. At first Josh's advice felt very improbable, but after a few tries, everything clicked. I had done the dreaded crux reach, and the route suddenly became doable in my mind!
Two different shots of the crux reach move on Superfly. First is Rob, mid reach, and then Josh, sticking the small hold.
Two weeks later, again it's a cold morning in Eldo. I'm out with Zack, the most reliable of all climbing partners. After a couple of route to warm-up at the very sunny "Roof" wall, we head to Kloof Alcove. The sun has just come around to Superfly, and the route is starting to get warm. A few days earlier, I had come out solo, and again top-roped the route, this time with success in mind. I had scouted the gear and refined the moves, and I felt ready. First attempt of the day, I made it through the crux, and then quickly fell. Disappointed, now with some doubt creeping in, I finished the route and lowered back to the ground.
After a few minutes of sitting around and waffling, I tie back in and go for the lead a second time. Again, the crux reach works, which is amazing. This move feels so improbable, but now that I know how to do it, it works almost every time. I fight through the next few moves, which had spat me off last time, and gain a very tenuous stance. Now, the route shift from very difficult, to slightly less difficult, very strenuous, and a bit scary. You can get a few pieces of gear between here and the top, but it's all of questionable quality and hard to place. I get to the very last move of the route, literally holding on to a huge jug, and the forearm pump threatens to force me off. Zack's screams of encouragement from below give me a mental boost, and I flop onto the ledge atop the route.
Friday, January 15, 2010
TWENTY-TEN!
Alright, so I know we're already over 1/24th of the way through the new year, but I've been waiting for something worthwhile to post about.
As an obsessive goal and list maker (not necessarily goal or list finisher), the new year always provides plenty of opportunity for entertainment. As a climber, these goals are often routes, usually harder than I can realistically climb at the moment, but that doesn't matter. Everything is possible with a blank slate. So, in the spirit of the year, Ten climbs for TwentyTen:
In Colorado:
Scary Canary, 5.12 R, Eldo Canyon
Oddly enough the only climb on the list from my home crag. I think I was inclined to pick a lot of "destination" climbs to motivate me to travel a bit and check out new places.
The Avenger, 5.13a, Independence Pass
I've never checked out Indy Pass, but it's up in the mountains and might make a good warm weather destination. Hopefully I can hang out there long enough to send this burly looking route.
The Wasp, 5.13a, Rocky Mountain National Park
Another very difficult single pitch route, one the coolest looking hard trad leads in the state. I'd be very psyched to check this line out.
Ariana, 5.12a, the Diamond of Long's Peak
This one will be a test of fitness at altitude (it starts over 13,000'). Hopefully it'll go well, and I can set my sights on some harder Diamond routes
The Free Nose, 5.12, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
A huge and committing hard free climb in on the coolest (and scariest) looking climbing venues in the lower 48.
Tague Yer Time, 5.12, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Another long and difficult route, this one's in the shade. I've heard very good things about this new-ish route.
Utah:
Moonlight Buttress, 5.12d, Zion National Park
Splitter sandstone big-wall, enough said.
California:
Freerider, 5.12d, Yosemite
Maybe the ultimate goal for me; free climbing El Capitan would certainly be a lifetime highlight.
A more aid intensive El Cap route
Less specific, but I'll leave my options open. Basically I'd like to do a "real" El Cap route besides the Nose and the Salathe, which I've climbed multiple times each. I'm not sure I'll be into "hard" aid climbing, which to me just sounds scary. But perhaps the North America wall, Tangerine Trip, Melcalito, Pacific Ocean wall, the Sheild, or Zodiac would provide some entertainment. Ideally I'd do a few, and if I get the hang of fast aid climbing, do one in a day.
A BIG link-up: Reg NW Face of Half Dome + The Nose + another big climb (maybe South Face of Column?)
Hey, it's a dream list...
One more goal: climb 200+ days outside this year. Hmmm, this might be hard, but today was day 8...
As an obsessive goal and list maker (not necessarily goal or list finisher), the new year always provides plenty of opportunity for entertainment. As a climber, these goals are often routes, usually harder than I can realistically climb at the moment, but that doesn't matter. Everything is possible with a blank slate. So, in the spirit of the year, Ten climbs for TwentyTen:
In Colorado:
Scary Canary, 5.12 R, Eldo Canyon
Oddly enough the only climb on the list from my home crag. I think I was inclined to pick a lot of "destination" climbs to motivate me to travel a bit and check out new places.
The Avenger, 5.13a, Independence Pass
I've never checked out Indy Pass, but it's up in the mountains and might make a good warm weather destination. Hopefully I can hang out there long enough to send this burly looking route.
The Wasp, 5.13a, Rocky Mountain National Park
Another very difficult single pitch route, one the coolest looking hard trad leads in the state. I'd be very psyched to check this line out.
Ariana, 5.12a, the Diamond of Long's Peak
This one will be a test of fitness at altitude (it starts over 13,000'). Hopefully it'll go well, and I can set my sights on some harder Diamond routes
The Free Nose, 5.12, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
A huge and committing hard free climb in on the coolest (and scariest) looking climbing venues in the lower 48.
Tague Yer Time, 5.12, the Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Another long and difficult route, this one's in the shade. I've heard very good things about this new-ish route.
Utah:
Moonlight Buttress, 5.12d, Zion National Park
Splitter sandstone big-wall, enough said.
California:
Freerider, 5.12d, Yosemite
Maybe the ultimate goal for me; free climbing El Capitan would certainly be a lifetime highlight.
A more aid intensive El Cap route
Less specific, but I'll leave my options open. Basically I'd like to do a "real" El Cap route besides the Nose and the Salathe, which I've climbed multiple times each. I'm not sure I'll be into "hard" aid climbing, which to me just sounds scary. But perhaps the North America wall, Tangerine Trip, Melcalito, Pacific Ocean wall, the Sheild, or Zodiac would provide some entertainment. Ideally I'd do a few, and if I get the hang of fast aid climbing, do one in a day.
A BIG link-up: Reg NW Face of Half Dome + The Nose + another big climb (maybe South Face of Column?)
Hey, it's a dream list...
One more goal: climb 200+ days outside this year. Hmmm, this might be hard, but today was day 8...
Tuesday, December 8, 2009
Multimedia
Ok, so I know the last post was all.. words and stuff. So this one is (almost) all... pictures and stuff. Enjoy:
This is probably the best sports action video I've ever seen. Four words: Backflip off a tree.
Some great pics from the most recent Creek trip:
Me dialing in the onsight on "The Judge" (5.12-). Photo by some really nice guys on the next route over.
Clayton sussing it out above some mighty small gear, also on "The Judge".
The crew out for a rest day ramble in the Needles district of Canyonlands NP. Highly recommended.
Just to break up the Indian Creek shots, here's one from two winters ago at the Sheepshead, Coshise Stronghold, Southern Arizona. Photo by Zack Durbin.
Dustin placing gear on "Six Star Crack" (5.13-), yours truely at the hanging belay. This is one of the purest splitters I've ever seen. Photo: Brad Gobright.
Me styling the send of Six Star... haha. No really, this route shut me down brutally. Redemption next spring? I need to get fit! Photo, again by Brad Gobright.
Anyone who doesn't appreciate this photo has never crack climbed. Yet again, pic by Brad.
OK, so you have to click on the link for this one, but it's worth it.
This is why they tell you not to throw water on a grease fire!
Video by Brad Gobright
This is probably the best sports action video I've ever seen. Four words: Backflip off a tree.
Some great pics from the most recent Creek trip:
Me dialing in the onsight on "The Judge" (5.12-). Photo by some really nice guys on the next route over.
Clayton sussing it out above some mighty small gear, also on "The Judge".
The crew out for a rest day ramble in the Needles district of Canyonlands NP. Highly recommended.
Just to break up the Indian Creek shots, here's one from two winters ago at the Sheepshead, Coshise Stronghold, Southern Arizona. Photo by Zack Durbin.
Dustin placing gear on "Six Star Crack" (5.13-), yours truely at the hanging belay. This is one of the purest splitters I've ever seen. Photo: Brad Gobright.
Me styling the send of Six Star... haha. No really, this route shut me down brutally. Redemption next spring? I need to get fit! Photo, again by Brad Gobright.
Anyone who doesn't appreciate this photo has never crack climbed. Yet again, pic by Brad.OK, so you have to click on the link for this one, but it's worth it.
This is why they tell you not to throw water on a grease fire!
Video by Brad Gobright
Monday, November 30, 2009
Creek-giving
Some people like to spend their Thanksgiving holidays sitting in their warm houses, watching football, and eating turkey with their families.
Some people like to spend their Thanksgiving holidays sitting in the red dirt, watching the campfire, and eating turkey with their climbing friends.
Here are some images that anyone that has had the priviledge of belonging to the latter group might appreciate:
The crisp night air is brilliant with stars and moonlight, and the plentiful beer and boxed wine makes it seem positively warm out. The solidly frozen water bottles beg to differ.
The life-giving sun greets the flawless blue sky every morning, and in no time it's warm enough to worm out of the sleeping bag and get the blood flowing. As everyone stumbles out of their respective tents, plans are made, first for breakfast (sausage or bacon? pancakes or potatoes? all of the above?), then for climbing.
Shoulder the big pack, begin the trudge up to the wall. Let's find a good warm-up... nah, screw it, let's get on that! Last night's cold all but forgotten, layers come off, and it's time for climbing!
The day winds down, many good routes were attempted, much radness accomplished. "We'll definitely need to come back to this crag!" Thoughts shift to dinner, every throws out ideas and volunteers ingrediants. Shoulder those packs again, stumble back to the cars. Don't forget to close the gate behind you.
Arriving back at camp, the sun has gone behind the cliffs, and the chill quickly permeates. Grab a few extra layers, get that fire going, and let's start dinner! Everyone pitches in, even though chopping leads to frozen hands; deliciousness is ready in no time.
You should know that, when sitting around a campfire, it is absolutely futile to try and get up to avoid the woodsmoke. Once it is blowing in your direction, it will follow you no matter where you move. Seems that everyone else is sitting still, totally unmolested, while your eyes sting and lungs burn. Might as well sit still; if you ignore it, it'll get bored and leave you alone.
The fire winds down, folks stop throwing more wood on, an unspoken consensus is reached. One by one, friends drift back to their tents, and soon you'll be zippering up that puffy cocoon of down and passing out for the night. It's gonna be a busy day tomorrow...
Some people like to spend their Thanksgiving holidays sitting in the red dirt, watching the campfire, and eating turkey with their climbing friends.
Here are some images that anyone that has had the priviledge of belonging to the latter group might appreciate:
The crisp night air is brilliant with stars and moonlight, and the plentiful beer and boxed wine makes it seem positively warm out. The solidly frozen water bottles beg to differ.
The life-giving sun greets the flawless blue sky every morning, and in no time it's warm enough to worm out of the sleeping bag and get the blood flowing. As everyone stumbles out of their respective tents, plans are made, first for breakfast (sausage or bacon? pancakes or potatoes? all of the above?), then for climbing.
Shoulder the big pack, begin the trudge up to the wall. Let's find a good warm-up... nah, screw it, let's get on that! Last night's cold all but forgotten, layers come off, and it's time for climbing!
The day winds down, many good routes were attempted, much radness accomplished. "We'll definitely need to come back to this crag!" Thoughts shift to dinner, every throws out ideas and volunteers ingrediants. Shoulder those packs again, stumble back to the cars. Don't forget to close the gate behind you.
Arriving back at camp, the sun has gone behind the cliffs, and the chill quickly permeates. Grab a few extra layers, get that fire going, and let's start dinner! Everyone pitches in, even though chopping leads to frozen hands; deliciousness is ready in no time.
You should know that, when sitting around a campfire, it is absolutely futile to try and get up to avoid the woodsmoke. Once it is blowing in your direction, it will follow you no matter where you move. Seems that everyone else is sitting still, totally unmolested, while your eyes sting and lungs burn. Might as well sit still; if you ignore it, it'll get bored and leave you alone.
The fire winds down, folks stop throwing more wood on, an unspoken consensus is reached. One by one, friends drift back to their tents, and soon you'll be zippering up that puffy cocoon of down and passing out for the night. It's gonna be a busy day tomorrow...
Thursday, November 19, 2009
Training, Doing, and Dreaming
[I actually wrote this post the week before Thanksgiving, but failed to post it. Better late than never...]
"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are"- Theodore Roosevelt
Part of action is dreaming, part is preparing, and part is doing.
Doing:
The weather has been beautiful and crisp hereabouts, and it's prime time for getting out and experiencing the radness. Highlights from this week: Eldo Tuesday, Roof Routes, got to meet Roger Briggs (Old-School Eldo badass!), and talk about his famous testpiece: Scary Canary (5.12 R). Joe and I were climbing the first pitch, and he had some great recollections from his first ascent way back in 1980. Dude is still cranking, of course, and styled a few heady 5.11 pitches in the on the always tricky Roof wall. Anyways, Joe and I will be back soon to try out the 2nd (crux) pitch. Roger advised bringing a hammer, just in case the crux fixed knifeblade (yes, the piton he placed almost 30 years ago) needs to be tapped back in.
Wednesday saw the season's first trip down to the South Platte, and fantastic and sprawling region in the Rocky Mountain foothills south and west of Denver. The crag of the day was Sunshine wall, part of the Cathedral Spires group. An early, frosty start in Boulder had Tim and I wondering how conditions would be at the wall, over two thousand feet higher in elevation! Though it was still cold at the parking lot, next to the semi forzen Platte river and surrounded by deep snow, we quickly shed layers as we hiked up out of the valley towards the spires. Sunshine Wall fulfilled its promise on that bluebird day, and climbing temps were utterly perfect (bordering on too hot!?!).
After enjoying the classic "Standard Route" (11a, 4 pitches), I focused on the proj de jour: Far Reaches (12c). This splitter seam is thin, thin, thin, and just under vertical. After some recon on top rope, I went for the lead. With the very thin and specific rack preselected on my harness (#4 RP, draw for fixed pin, #5 stopper, #2 camalot(yes!), #3 RP, 000 C3...), I was optimistic, but I botched the crux sequence, ended up losing my feet while my left hand was still in a fingerlock, and then peeling off anyways. I finished the lead, nursing a tweaked and bloody left ring finger. The bad finger, combined with the fading light, conspired to call it a day, and we headed home. Far Reaches: I'll be back for you!
"Do what you can, with what you have, where you are"- Theodore Roosevelt
Part of action is dreaming, part is preparing, and part is doing.
Doing:
The weather has been beautiful and crisp hereabouts, and it's prime time for getting out and experiencing the radness. Highlights from this week: Eldo Tuesday, Roof Routes, got to meet Roger Briggs (Old-School Eldo badass!), and talk about his famous testpiece: Scary Canary (5.12 R). Joe and I were climbing the first pitch, and he had some great recollections from his first ascent way back in 1980. Dude is still cranking, of course, and styled a few heady 5.11 pitches in the on the always tricky Roof wall. Anyways, Joe and I will be back soon to try out the 2nd (crux) pitch. Roger advised bringing a hammer, just in case the crux fixed knifeblade (yes, the piton he placed almost 30 years ago) needs to be tapped back in.
Wednesday saw the season's first trip down to the South Platte, and fantastic and sprawling region in the Rocky Mountain foothills south and west of Denver. The crag of the day was Sunshine wall, part of the Cathedral Spires group. An early, frosty start in Boulder had Tim and I wondering how conditions would be at the wall, over two thousand feet higher in elevation! Though it was still cold at the parking lot, next to the semi forzen Platte river and surrounded by deep snow, we quickly shed layers as we hiked up out of the valley towards the spires. Sunshine Wall fulfilled its promise on that bluebird day, and climbing temps were utterly perfect (bordering on too hot!?!).
After enjoying the classic "Standard Route" (11a, 4 pitches), I focused on the proj de jour: Far Reaches (12c). This splitter seam is thin, thin, thin, and just under vertical. After some recon on top rope, I went for the lead. With the very thin and specific rack preselected on my harness (#4 RP, draw for fixed pin, #5 stopper, #2 camalot(yes!), #3 RP, 000 C3...), I was optimistic, but I botched the crux sequence, ended up losing my feet while my left hand was still in a fingerlock, and then peeling off anyways. I finished the lead, nursing a tweaked and bloody left ring finger. The bad finger, combined with the fading light, conspired to call it a day, and we headed home. Far Reaches: I'll be back for you!
Today (Thursday) I was back at the office (Eldo). Climbing with Lisa, a strong and bold Front Range newcomer, I was psyched to show her some classic routes. Our route, recommended by Eldo veteran Bob as "the Astroman of Eldo", is a linkup of Super-Arete (11a, 1 pitch), the Doub-Griffith (11c, 2 pitches), and Mellow Yellow (11d, 3 pitches). After barely missing the onsights on both Super-Arete and pitch one of Doub-Griffith, Lisa got it right on the crux second pitch of D-G and scored a sweet onsight. I led the crux first pitch of Mellow Yellow, and for the third time got shut down by the burly roof (hardest 11d in the canyon?).
Preparing:
Aside from regular trips to the local crags, I have plans for this winter season. Preparing for next spring (more on this below) both physically and financially. Financially being able to support another rad round of climbing bumming, and physically to be able to crush it while I'm out there!
[Photos to come of training on the basement woody]
Dreaming: Yosemite, Spring 2010, See y'all there!
Sunday, October 18, 2009
After the Gold Rush
This is a new era for my Blog, as I am no longer Road Bound, and have found semi-permanent housing.
Now that I'm somewhat settled, let me fill you in on what's been going on:
Super-sweet housing situation! Rejoining society after a big roadtrip can be tough, and since I was looking for cheap housing in Boulder (oxymoron), I figured I'd end up in some rat hole apartment. Not the case! For cheaper that any crappy place in Boulder, I moved into a room in an amazing house in Superior, CO. Boulder is just 15-20 minutes away, and Eldo, my home away from home, is just 10 minutes from my doorstep. Brendon, who owns the house, is a rad dude and also a climber, and Sam and Andrew, my other two roommates, are adventurous and agreeable dudes.
Getting back into the flow of things here in Colorado can be harder than crawling out of this hole on Red Dihedral (10, CA Sierras) Photo: Christopher Maher.
Fall Indian Creek trip! I can't get enough of the dirtbag lifestyle, so I made my fall pilgramage to the "Center of the Universe": da Creek! Many fine folks, old friends and new, were in attendance, and with fine weather much radness was accomplished.
Enjoying the sweet, sweet Wingate sandstone on Family Home Night (12)
No hands! on Big Baby (11+)
Clayton, Josie, and Fred wrapping things up after a great day at Broken Tooth wall.
Ongoing action at the local crags! With Eldo back as my homebase, and tons of motivated locals to get out with, this winter should be a fine one on the Front Range. Notable Eldo action so far: The Wisdom (12a), Hands in the Clouds (12a), Onsight of "Brand New Cadillac (11R), Mellow Fellow (11c), Scary Canary (Just P1 so far, 11d R), and a sub 2 hour roundtrip on The Naked Edge (with Rob K, who has been the partner for much of this season's sending). Hopes are high for some harder projects, possibly Huck Off (12b), Practice Climb 101 (12c), Superfly (12d R), 2nd Pitch of Scary Canary (12 R), the Evictor (12d), and probably others.
Pulling into the business on "Jolt Cola" (12a, Boulder Canyon) en route to a flash. Photo: Clayton Laramie.
Karate kick! Photo: Clayton Laramie.
I can climb this with my eyes closed... Photo: Joe Crotty
Bearing down for a redpoint of "Hands in the Clouds" (12a, Eldo). Photo: Joe Crotty
Now that I'm somewhat settled, let me fill you in on what's been going on:
Super-sweet housing situation! Rejoining society after a big roadtrip can be tough, and since I was looking for cheap housing in Boulder (oxymoron), I figured I'd end up in some rat hole apartment. Not the case! For cheaper that any crappy place in Boulder, I moved into a room in an amazing house in Superior, CO. Boulder is just 15-20 minutes away, and Eldo, my home away from home, is just 10 minutes from my doorstep. Brendon, who owns the house, is a rad dude and also a climber, and Sam and Andrew, my other two roommates, are adventurous and agreeable dudes.
Getting back into the flow of things here in Colorado can be harder than crawling out of this hole on Red Dihedral (10, CA Sierras) Photo: Christopher Maher.Fall Indian Creek trip! I can't get enough of the dirtbag lifestyle, so I made my fall pilgramage to the "Center of the Universe": da Creek! Many fine folks, old friends and new, were in attendance, and with fine weather much radness was accomplished.
Enjoying the sweet, sweet Wingate sandstone on Family Home Night (12)
No hands! on Big Baby (11+)
Clayton, Josie, and Fred wrapping things up after a great day at Broken Tooth wall.Ongoing action at the local crags! With Eldo back as my homebase, and tons of motivated locals to get out with, this winter should be a fine one on the Front Range. Notable Eldo action so far: The Wisdom (12a), Hands in the Clouds (12a), Onsight of "Brand New Cadillac (11R), Mellow Fellow (11c), Scary Canary (Just P1 so far, 11d R), and a sub 2 hour roundtrip on The Naked Edge (with Rob K, who has been the partner for much of this season's sending). Hopes are high for some harder projects, possibly Huck Off (12b), Practice Climb 101 (12c), Superfly (12d R), 2nd Pitch of Scary Canary (12 R), the Evictor (12d), and probably others.
Pulling into the business on "Jolt Cola" (12a, Boulder Canyon) en route to a flash. Photo: Clayton Laramie.
Karate kick! Photo: Clayton Laramie.
I can climb this with my eyes closed... Photo: Joe Crotty
Bearing down for a redpoint of "Hands in the Clouds" (12a, Eldo). Photo: Joe Crotty
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