Sunday, July 26, 2009

The Hulk!

Ok, so some quick catching up: Two weeks ago, just after my wonderful stay in San Fran with Eric and Sarah, I returned to Yosemite, this time to Toulumne Meadows. This higher altitude section of the park offers cooler temps, beautiful sculpted domes and peaks, and free camping! (not really, but I'm staying with some friends)

Toulumne Meadows


It's really awesome hanging out here, and there's plenty of motivated folks to climb with, including my friend Graham. Some highlights of climbing in Toulumne: The Scorpion (11b) and the Wailing Wall (11d) on Medlicott Dome, The OZ and Gram Traverse on Drug Dome (10d), and the Hobbit Book (I forget where it is..., but it's 5.7)


Me leading the Gram Traverse on Drug Dome. The pitch goes horizontally for 150' under a giant roof.

Even cooler, though, than Toulumne, is the climbing in the High Sierra mountains, specifically on a mountain called "The Incredible Hulk". The Hulk is a perfect white chunk of granite, about 1500' high, located way back in a canyon at around 11,000' elevation. It's a tough hike in, so we decided to spend and few days camping at the base and try as many routes on it as we could. The crew was mostly from the Toulumne SAR (search and rescue) team: Graham, Ben, John, Lorna, and Kevin.

Our first view of the Hulk, about 4 miles into the approach

The camping is spectacular, with pure alpine streams, hidden lakes, huge cliffs, and no other people. The only bother was the mosquitos, but we seemed to get used to them and by the 2nd day we were indifferent (or totally saturated with DEET).

The climbing is more spectacular! The rock on the Hulk is some of the best in California, which would place it high in the running for best world-wide. Clean white vertical granite with loads of perfect cracks, this stuff is the medium for amazing climbing. John and I started out with the most classic line on the face: Positive Vibrations (11a). John led the first four pitches cleanly, which set me up for the even steeper and more exposed four pitches above. Positive is mega-classic, and we were stoked for the team onsight! (climber slang: Onsight= to lead a climb first try, without insider info on how it goes, and without any falls or hanging on the rope)


The Hulk at sunset

The next day: Sunspot Dihedral (11b). John was a bit tired, and the route sounded pretty hard, so we figured I should lead all the pitched. This is a rare treat, and I heartily enjoyed it! Sunspot was every bit as good as Positive Vibes, and even harder and much more sustained. It had powerful roof climbing, delicate thin cracks, gorgeous soaring corners, and a cryptic crux. I led every pitch clean for the onsight!

Our last day John decided to hike out (he's headed to Squamish, maybe we'll see him later in the summer), so I hooked up with Justin, a strongman from Montana. We picked AstroHulk (11c, do you notice a pattern?) for the day, and by this point the rock was seeming pretty familiar, so we got a comfortably late start. Just had already done Astrohulk, so we decided to throw in a harder variation on some of the lower pitches, doing pitches 3-5 of "Venturi Effect". This proved to be the highlight of the day!

Justin led the first 11+ variation pitch onsight, and that set us up at the base of a striking corner. Obvious from the ground, this corner is maybe the most clean feature on a mountain full of clean features! Justin had to get his head psyched up this pitch, and he styled the insecure 12a liebacking despite the huge fall potential. I was definitely nervoud for him, watching from the belay. Higher in the corner, the protection got better, but the climbing got harder, and Justin ended up taking a nice clean whipper. He manned up and finished the lead, and I felt really good on the follow, only falling twice.

Once past the variation pitches, we had an odd encounter: We look up to see Graham and Ben, who had been climbing Positive Vibes, rappelling down to us. Once they arrive, they explain that a slower party in front of them was holding them up, and they decided to bail. Fortunately, Justin decided that he would also like to bail (since he'd already climbed the rest of the route), and Graham was keen to continue climbing. So, about 500' off the deck, we traded partners. Justin and Ben rappelled to the ground and spent the rest of the day swimming and relaxing, while Graham and I continued up AstroHulk. And we tore it up! We both felt super confident onsighting the remaining 4 pitches, and we topped out on the ridge with plenty of daylight to spare. A quick rappel brought us back to the ground, and then a quick "ski" descent of the snowfield brought us back to camp.


The Crew getting going in the morning

Sorry to keep throwing more names at you, but that day Ben's friends Marcus and Rocky, from West Virginia, show up at camp. They roll up in good West Virginia style: with a fishing pole, a full size axe, some beer, and a gun. Party tonight! While we were climbing they had caught some delicious trout, and we all feasted. This was the last night in the Sierras for us, and in the morning we gathered our stuff and hiked out. What an awesome three days: great friends, great food, and three killer onsights!

Anyways, I'm now staked out back in Toulumne, probably for the next week or two. Here's some pictures of a fun party we threw last night when Graham's friends Sarah and Laura were visiting:

Sam playing the "Crate Game" The goal is to stack as many crates as you can, while standing on them. Note the harness and ropes, we like to keep things safe.


Ben pretending he's a bear

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

Eric, Sarah, San Fran, and Bikes

I'm enjoying a cool, sunny day here in Albany, California, hanging out with my good friend Eric.

Eric and I were roommates back in Colorado (and back in Tucson, AZ, and way back at Denison U. in Ohio), and two months ago, around the same time I started my roadtrip, he moved here with his girlfriend Sarah. They have a gorgeous little place in the suburbs, right next to Berkeley (the city line is a few houses down) and just across the bay from San Francisco. It's all decked out and domesticated, and both of them love it here.

Two days ago I left Yosemite Valley, which was starting to get scorching hot (I guess it's 102 F there right now), and then drove across the Central Valley, which is always scorching. Then I crossed the Coastal range and dropped down into the Bay Area, and it was like another world! It's lush and green here with great cool ocean breezes. As I write this it's 73 degrees!


Taking advantage of the great weather, Eric and I went on a bike tour of San Fran yesterday. Even though he's been here 2 months, he hasn't really gotten a chance to do the whole tourist gig there, so we would both be doing some exploring. We started out by taking the subway across the bay to the Embarcadero, which is the bustling city center. We dodged cars and pedestrians on our bikes and made our way all the way across the peninsula to the Golden Gate park, which took us past a cross section of the city: the skyscrapers and business suits of the financial district, the neighborhood groceries stores and gang graffiti of the "Tenderloins" district, the City hall building complete with San Fran style political rally, and the hippy and homeless sector of the Haight Ashbury.



When we reached the Pacific side of the city, we sat on the beach for a while. Alas, it was to cold for a quick swim. Then we worked our way back northeast along the coast on some hilly bikepaths over to the Golden Gate Bridge. We rode across the bridge to Marin County, and hung out there enjoying the views, but being blasted by wind.


Back across the Golden Gate, we continued along the shore to the touristy Fisherman's Wharf area, where we grabbed some In-and-Out Bugers. Our stomachs full, we used that greasy fuel to power us up and down some of the steepest paved hills I'd ever seen. We even got to bike down Lombard street, the famous super-curvy one.


Then we decided to find Chinatown, which I had pictured in my mind as some dark network of narrow roads and crazy restaurants and groceries and laundries. I guess we didn't really find that, but I did get to go a real chinese grocery, and enjoyed seeing all the cryptic cans of eels and fish and foreign candies.

Finally, we rode down the coast, around the baseball stadium, out to some piers to enjoy the sunset on the city. A quick subway ride back under the Bay took us back home to complete a full touristy day.

I'm loving here by the Bay, and I think I'll hang out for a few more days with these great people until I head back to the mountains for some more rock climbing!

Thursday, July 9, 2009

Yeah, I'm still alive

Hey Y'all-
Sorry for being delinquent with the posts lately, it's been tons of climbing and not much internet time. I'm gonna write up a good post tomorrow, but as for now I'll just say this:

Eric and I tried the Nose-HD linkup, but only completed the Nose (In 12 hours, darn...)
Here's the link to Tom Evan's El Cap Report with some funny comments about us and a Korean team that Eric and I "rescued".

Graham (who is on the Valley YoSAR team) and I have been hanging out at the Camp 4 SAR (search and rescue) site, camping and eating and climbing. Our big outing was Freeing Half Dome! Not really, but we got very close, only failing to send 2 pitches. Here's Grahams bitchin trip report.


Eric and I went to the Needles for a few days: awesome climbing and even better camping!

Back in the Valley now, have to figure out what I want to do next (hmmm..., Valley, Toulumne, Sierras, Squamish...) . More living the dream!

Peace,
Scott

Wednesday, June 24, 2009

24 hours?


Gettin Ready

Life is still wonderful here in the Valley, although it's certainly starting to feel more like summer. Last Sunday brought the longest day of the year, and we've been trying to put all these glorious hours of sunlight to good use. Sunday itself was mostly a rest day, Scott and I having just done the Nose on Saturday, but I did get some action in late in the day with my friend Brad. He called around 5 to say that he'd just gotten off work and wanted to climb!

I had never done the Royal Arches route, a super classic long moderate route that starts just behind the Ahwahnee hotel, so that's what we chose. Brad had done it, and was eager to try and best his old time of 45 minutes. That's right, a 15 pitch 5.7 in 45 minutes. Whatever, I'm game.
So we meet up at the hotel, wander up to the base of the route, and start the timer. Brad zooms up the route, and is quickly out of sight. It's more of a cardio challenge that anything, with most of the route consisting of running back and forth on ledges to access short little steep sections. The climbing is easy, and Brad stays 50-100' ahead and is able to yell down directions. The route really reminds me of the Flatirons, in Boulder, which are also big easy slabs routes and popular solos.

Up higher, the climbing gets a little steeper, which actually lets me catch my breath a bit as I have to slow down and think through the moves. There's a cool little bit in the middle where you have to negotiate a 15' blank section of rock with a rope swing (the rope is fixed in place) sideways to another ledge system. Yeah Tarzan!

Near the top comes the mental crux of the route, a series of blank, low-angle slabs that you have to traverse across. It's easy to just plant your feet and move slowly across, but there are no handholds, so it seems a little scary. Brad makes quick work of these, and he reaches the end of the climbing in just 35 minutes. I finish about 5 minutes behind, and we sit and chill for a while at the top. The real crux of the route come on the descent, the infamous North Dome Gully, which actually takes us nearly 2 hours. Maybe it would have been faster to down-climb the route!

Monday was a day of cragging out at "Pat and Jack" with Scott E, and Anna (of Lyons, CO, and currently Bakersfield, CA). We have a great chilled out day and get up two really good routes. "Knuckleheads", a bolted 5.10b with tricky, slippery, slopey climbing, and then "The Tube", a really fun 5.11 dihedral. The crux of "The Tube" involved some bizarre body-friction moves to try and keep yourself in the severely leaning corner, and it was interesting to try and figure out how to make progress using only your feet, butt, and shoulder.

Tuesday was another long day! I met up with Eric, a strong kid who is living and working here for the summer, at 5am, and we began the Slabs approach to Half Dome! We had never climbed to together other than some craggin in groups, so I was interested to see how he climbed and if our systems for climbing big routes fast would mesh well.

So we met up, gathered gear, and ate breakfast, and starting hiking around 6:30. That "hike" is pretty heinous, consisting of steep slabs with plenty of wet and loose terrain. It took us a little over 2 hours to do the hike, and then we chilled at the base and talked with two nice women who had hiked up to camp with their husbands, who were now on the route. They informed us that 4 parties had started up already this morning, so we might be in for a bottleneck. Anyways, we started climbing at 9:30, and the first 9 pitches went super quick with me leading and Eric simul-ing. One party passed there, no delay. I ended my lead at the base of the bolt ladder on the "Robbins Traverse". There was one party on that pitch, and we could see the others on the next 2 pitches.

Since I've been in the Valley, we've been focusing a lot on climbing big routes quickly, usually choosing the easier, well traveled "Trade routes". This means that almost every route is going ot involve passing other parties on the route, who might not be focusing as much on speed or might not be as experienced. It's kind of an art, making sure to be nice and make a good impression as you climb up to their belay, chatting about the weather and how great the climb is, generally avoiding the subject of passing right away. It does help, though, to put on a little burst of speed right as you're coming up, just to let them know that you won't get in their way later on. Finally, once you're at their belay and have established a bit of a connection, then ask where the best spot for you to pass might be. Often there are quick variations that might enable you to climb around them without ever slowing down. Sometimes, though, the route is a bottleneck, and there's no other option but to wait.

That's what we had to do there, chilling out while they led and cleaned the bolt ladder. The next pitch was equally bad for passing, so we cooled our heels as they led that as well. Finally we were at a big ledge, and they stopped for a second to let us by. There we still two parties ahead, and passing them was also time-consuming. I guess it's all part of the experience, though. Finally we were in the lead as we got to the Zig-Zag pitches, which went quickly, and I was still leading strong. Topping us out felt great, the hiker crowds on the top were in full force as Eric followed the last pitch and flopped on top. 3:45pm, for a time of 6:15, definitely a good time, I was stoked that climbing with Eric went pretty smoothly.

All of this was good prep work for the next BIG GOAL: the Half Dome-Nose Link-up, which I think Eric and I will by attempting on Saturday (and maybe on into Sunday). Check back soon to see how it goes!

ps- I do finally have some photos of the route (I know I've been slacking on bringing my camera on these big, fast climbs) so I'll update this post in a little while.

Sunday, June 21, 2009

11:24!!!

One time is not enough on the Best Rock Climb in the World, so my Friend Scott E. and I decided to go for another run up the Nose of El Capitan. You can read the report of our last ascent a few weeks back here. That was our first NIAD (Nose in a day) attempt, having already done the route in three days last year. That run went super well, and we finished in just over 14 hours. Having accomplished the "In a Day" goal, we were motivated to try again with a few simple goals: Be safe, have fun, and kick ass!


Yesterday morning at 4:30 our alarms went off and we awoke from our bivy in the Pines campground. Before that happened, though, some hilarity had ensued:

One of our preferred dirtbag camping options here in the Valley is to find nice tourists with a reserved campsite in the Valley campground (the Pines) and ask ever so nicely if we can bivy (basically just lay down our mats and sleeping bags and crash) in the corner of their site. We often embellish our request with epic stories of having just descended from El Cap and not having a place to stay (did we mention we climbed El Cap...). It's a good plan, and it's always worked for us.
Anyway, Friday night, the night before our Nose attempt, we were just looking to get some good rest, and we found a really nice guy who had a site all to himself. He said of course we could stay. Come 1:30am, we're asleep, and we're awoken to yelling and banging. I'm still pretty much dreaming and/or asleep, but Scott jumps up quickly. As there often is, there's a Black Bear in the site. I guess some friends of the guy we were camping with had arrived late, and were in the process of stocking their bear box (big metal food storage lockers located in every site). They weren't paying enough attention, though, and had left the box open, and so the local bruin seized the oppurtunity to grab a free snack.
So we wake up to a woman screaming "Hey Bear!" and clapping her hands. I guess someone had told here that's what to do to scare away a bear. It wasn't working. Scott jumps up, and in a much more aggressive tone, starts cursing the bear. Still nothing, he's going to town on the tasty contents of the box. Scott runs up, and with only the bear's butt sticking out of the box, proceeds to kick it square in the ass. (I probably shouldn't write this, since I'm sure it's against a number of Federal laws to assault a bear in a National Park, but it's too hilarious not to). The bear, however, is still too enthralled by all the free food and ignores Scott. He finds some rocks to throw, and eventually gets the bear to back up our of the box. Only then does Scott actually decide to back away, since this bear's no little baby and it looks pissed off. Finally, more rocks and much banging on the metal box convinces the bear to wander off, probably to find another open bear box to raid.
To top it all off, though, the woman who had been incessantly yelling "Hey Bear!" and clapping this entire time, also had a can of mace (!?), and I guess she wanted to use it on the bear. I think she must have pointed it the wrong way, though, because she caught herself full on in the face with it, and spent the next half hour sobbing and coughing.

So, we didn't get an awesome night's rest, but we still dragging ourselves out of bed at 4:30am, ate a quick breakfast, and headed down to El Cap. We timed it perfectly, and it just became light enough as we approached the base. This being our third time on the route, the second in just a few weeks, we now have the first bit pretty well sussed out. Regardless, the first few pitches always feel hard, and I take my time working my way up the slippery, pin-scarred cracks. No one is on Sickle Ledge, so we move quickly past that and into the Stovelegs cracks. One minor change from our last attempt: I would lead us all the way from the ground to Camp 4, what had been 3 lead blocks. Hopefully this would save time by eliminated lead change-overs. I think it worked well, and the experience of leading 20 consecutive pitches (only having to tag up gear twice) was pretty cool.
Passing Dolt tower, we find a party of 6 Korean climbers just waking up. We knew there were a lot of people on the route, since we had looked with binoculars the previous day, and we were relieved to be able to base 6 people at once without even slowing down.

Soon came the highlight of the day for me: the King Swing. We had avoided it on our previous ascent, opting to use a more straightforward new variation (the Jardine Traverse), but there's tons of appeal in sticking to the original route and doing the Swing. For the non El Cap savvy, the Nose route goes up the wall about halfway following various crack systems, which are essential for making progress. When the route reaches a spot called Boot flake, all of the cracks above blank out, and you must traverse 40' left across blank rock to gain another crack. To accomplish this, one climber lowers down about 100' from the top of Boot flake, and then runs with all his energy back and forth across the face until he can lunge and grab the elusive crack. Here's a few pictures from our King swing last year to give you an idea:

Scott and I atop the Boot last year. Note the haul bag, since we were doing it "Big-wall" style in three days. Do it in one and you don't have to haul that heavy bag!

Me about to stick the King Swing

Anyways, the Swing went pretty well for us. I lead it, and I was able to fix the rope atop Boot Flake, and lower myself down for the Swing on my GriGri. I thought it was pretty slick when I lowered down to Scott, who was jugging and cleaning the bolt ladder pitch above Texas flake, and was able to tag a bit of gear from him. Then I had to start running hard, and caught the faraway hold on my first attempt. Unfortunately, I had swung a bit too high, and I couldn't lower myself down on the GriGri while still gripping the holds. I had to let go, swing all the way back, lower a few more feet, and then stick it a second time. This time I grabbed some bigger holds and was able to get a hand free to ease off the GriGri and into the crack. With a giant war cry cheer, I was off up to Eagle Ledge, as Scott quickly finished cleaning the Boot. The whole sequence worked really well, and I'm psyched we were able to climb the route in the original fashion.

Soon we were at Camp Four, and it was Scott's turn to lead. After a short delay waiting for a party of three to finsh the Great Roof, Scott raced off up it. We passed that party just below Pancake Flake, and they were really nice, and I was soon at Camp 5, belaying Scott on maybe the most time-consuming pitch on the route: the Glowering Spot. The belay was another highlight of the route for me, though, since I got to chill out, enjoy the Valley view, rest up for my coming leads, and enjoying my huge sandwich! Fresh baked bread from the night before with salami, mayo, mustard, and cheddar; it's the perfect wall power sending food!
We reached Camp Six around 3:30, and it would be my leads all the way to the top. We could see one party (two really nice British kids) just finishing the Changing Corners lead, and I led off just behind their jugger. Having memorized the intricate climbing on this pitch, it went super quick, and I reached the next belay just after the British party's second. They let us pass, and so I fixed the rope and led up the next 5.10 thin hands pitch. Another pitch fixed, Scott jugging furiously behind, and then I was done with the Alcove also. One short 5.10 pitch to the base of the bolt ladder, fix the rope there, and then sprint up the over hanging bolts. Scott opts to simul this part, as opposed to jugging, and while I cheer him on he blasts up it. Another final sprint to the tree and we've done it. We check the watch, it's 4:54pm, our final time is 11hours and 24minutes. Yeah, Nose in half a day!

Friday, June 19, 2009

More pointless clock-racing

Another report from the world's most beautiful tourist trap: Yosemite!

Today (Friday) is a rest day, I'm lounging around the employee housing common room (really plush) doing laundy, dishes, and internet nerding. Resting because yesterday was a big one: Half Dome! My partner for this adventure was again Scott E, of Canon City, CO (who you might remember from our speedy ascent of the Nose a few weeks back). Scott had just gotten back in the Valley from SoCal, where he was hanging with friends, wife, and baby, and watching the Lakers win.
Scott and I like to climb fast together, so on his first day back we picked an easy line to get back in the groove. We did The Moratorium (4 pitches, 5.11b) and continued up the East Buttress of El Cap (13 pitches, 5.10). I got the leads on Moratorium, since Scott had already been on it and I wanted the onsight. It was rad! It follows a huge right-facing corner system and is sustained at 5.10 almost the whole way, with one short 5.11 crux. I led it in two pitches, onsight, in just over an hour. The route ends on a big ledge, far on the right margin of El Cap, where it has devolved from the striking 3000' majesty of the Nose to a merely 1000' lower-angled ridge. The East Buttress follows this ridge, and has a short (but tricky) 5.10 crux down low, with mostly 5.5-5.9 climbing up the heavily featured terrain to the top. We led it in two blocks, Scott taking the first one and me simul-climbing behind. Around midway we traded, with me leading, doing a mix of simuling and short-fixing. The route went quickly, with only short delays due to passing a party and climbing slow on the wet rock (nearby Horsetail Falls was getting blown onto the route, making it feel like a water-park ride). We topped out by 3:30, just a little over 4 hours for the entire link-up (17 pitches according to the guidebook). We were stoked, and ready to take on a bigger challenge.


So, Wednesday night we start the hike up to Half Dome. The plan is to sleep at the base of the route and fire it in the morning. We make a hearty meal, try to ignore the persistent mosquitos (who knew they hung out up there), and quickly got to bed. There are a few others bivied there also, and they wake up before us and start the route in the twilight. We take out time making breakfast and racking up, spotting both parties a two pitch lead.
When we're finally ready, I take the lead. I pass both parties without incident within the first four pitches, and I end up leading (with Scott simuling) to around pitch 7. I say "around" because somewhere in there we got off-route, and I ended up climbing some mega-dirty hand crack, and then traversing around for a while on ledges. Scott came up, made fun of my poor sense of direction (it was seriously confusing!), and got us back on route.
Here the route became more well-defined, and we made good progress with Scott in the lead. He took us to the base of the chimney pitches (pitch 12-ish), and I took back over. Here I started short fixing, which meant that I could finish a pitch, pull up the slack, fix the rope, and then continue climbing as Scott ascend the fixed line. I knocked off the next 8 pitches, including the free crux Zig Zag pitches (11d-12a) with a mix of free and aid. Scott wanted to top us out, so he took the lead just before "Thank God" ledge, a really cool feature. It's a narrow sliver of granite that formes a ledge 40' long and just a foot or two wide. You start simply walking along it, but it quickly gets too narrow, so then you crawl for a bit, and then finally end up with your hands on the ledge hand-traversing. Scott then got stuck in the true crux of the route, the narrow 5.8 squeeze chimney. Scott's a built dude, and his manly chest had trouble fitting through the tight slot. Then more delay as Scott gets to the ledge at the end of the pitch and finds another party just starting the next pitch. They had spent a cold night on a ledge about halfway up the route, and now their belay was consuming every possible piece of gear on the ledge, so Scott has no choice but to sit down and wait. 40 minutes later, their leader finally finishes the pitch and after much wrangling, their second managed to clear the belay (I shouldn't give these guys a hard time, they were super nice and it was their first big-wall/aid experience). Scott builds our belay, brings me up, and quickly navigates to their next belay, where they graciously let us pass.
The tourists are in sight now at the top of the wall, and we're motivated to finish up. One last 5.8 pitch and some wandering traversing has Scott clearing the lip and joining the hikers on top. I have to follow, which is complicated by our inability to communicate (with Scott a ways back from the lip hunting for an anchor). Finally I pull up and we're done: 8 hours 40 minutes.
We're pretty happy with our time, considering it was our first time on the route, but we know we can do it way faster if the conditions are right.
Finishing Half Dome in a day was especially gratifying to me, since I listed it as one of my top ten climbing goals this year. On a thread here, I listed my goals for the year, and with the year a little more than half done, I'm a little more than half done with my routes.
Here's the List

In Eldo:
Jules Verne (onsight)
The Evictor (not done, I've put in some effort, but it's really hard)
The Wisdom (not even tried yet, hopefully this Fall)
Doub-Griffith (onsight)
Also in Colorado:
Wunsch's Dihedral (redpoint)
D7 (not done)
Scenic Cruise (not done)
And in the Valley:
Reg NW on Half dome IAD (Heck yeah, 8:40!)
The Nose, IAD (Done, 14:06)
Astroman (Done, onsight)

So I guess I've got some work to do when I get back to Colorado in the fall. The hardest one might be D7, which is on the Diamond of Long's Peak at 13,000'. It won't really be in season by the time I get back, so maybe it'll have to be a winter style aid ascent...

I guess since I'll have bunch of time for climbing over the next few months, I should make some more goals at some of my potetial destinations. Here goes:

In Yosemite:
The Crucifix
Seperate Reality
Tales of Power
The Big Linkup (Nose and Half Dome) in a day
Bachar-Yerian (probably not, since I value my ankles, but we'll see...)

Tons of Stuff in the Sierras:
Positive Vibrations
Red Dihedral
Mt. Russell
Mt. Whitney

In Squamish:
The Grand Wall
The Freeway
The University Wall