Wednesday, September 22, 2010

New Route in Eldo

My friend Blake and I got out to Eldo yesterday, enjoying a gorgeous early Fall day with highs in the low 70s and an amazing cooling breeze. We had some big plans for the day, thinking of attempting some "Eldo Insanity Link-up". We did not end up doing the link-up (we have a few ideas, something like The Wisdom->Naked Edge followed by Superarete->Doub-Griffith->Mellow Yellow). Hopefully the link-up will go down soon, look for a report in the next few weeks.

Anyways, after running up both excellent pitches of Evangaline, we found ourselves on the Upper Ramp, and Blake onsighted pitch one of "The Serpent" (5.10b R). The Serpent traverses hard left for the whole pitch, and with our rope hanging straight off the anchor, we spotted a potential line up the blank face, joining a steep corner up high and finishing at the Serpent anchors.

The King Cobra is marked in Red. The climber pictured (Josh) is leading "Rise Above" (5.12a). The upper dihedral portion of King Cobra is very foreshortened in the photo, it is actually 20' long.

After a quick top-rope burn, I led the pitch, which we believe is a new route. We called it:
The King Cobra, 5.10+ (5.8 R), Bennett-Herrington, 2010

 The route climbs pretty good rock with some runout 5.8 face to start, and then excellent stemming in good rock with solid gear up high. Go get on it!

Also, for anyone looking for a high quality, safe 5.11 pitch on the Bastille, my friend Rob and I did an old and fairly neglected route on the North Face. I posted the route on Mountain Project, check it out: Nexus, 5.11a

Fall is a gorgeous time to climb in Eldo Canyon, let's all get out and enjoy the beautiful Colorado weather!

Tom Evans and the El Cap Bridge crew enjoying tall boys of King Cobra!


  1. "after running up both excellent pitches of Evangaline"

    This just in - Blake is the world's slowest runner.